SW16: Cacti, Hummingbirds and UFOs

Sunset View

A typical Western-movie sunset over Organ Pipe Cactus Monument Campground!

Day 19: February 24

There was no drumming circle last night, but a raucous campfire with two couples: Sue and Benita from Oregon/Phoenix and Marilyn and Dwayne from Phoenix. And the full moon rising was unbelievable!

We decided to head west due to the Tucson Rodeo, but stopped in Patagonia first to go to Paton's, an Audubon Site where Hummingbirds are fed. It was started by a couple who just loved the birds and was taken over when they couldn't do it any longer.

We did get a few pictures and a new Life Hummingbird, Anna's:

A quick stop for supplies, and we started for Organ Pipe. We saw our first Saguaros just outside of Tucson, and they, along with dozens of roadside shrines (to accident victims? to those dying after illegally entering?) lined the highway:

We missed being hit by INCHES leaving a gas station. Can't imagine how that might have gone. We asked ourselves:

But we made it safely to Organ Pipe National Monument Campground (Site 55, $16-plus $12 Park fee for a week-with no services). The place is gorgeous. Each site has a cement pad and patio, garden and access to restrooms and showers. Here's Site 55:

As we relaxed and birdwatched at our site:

..., Jane and Henry from Orillia, Ontario, joined us for Happy Hour. After dinner, we hoped to see the full-moon rise again, but settled for a gorgeous night sky with stars, the Milky Way, satellites and...bright orange bursts...three of them! UFOs for sure. Wow.

Day 20: February 25

Yesterday, we were able to snag two seats on the Alamo Canyon Ranger-led van tour for today. But first, we had to deal with the Coffee Incident of 2016 (which surpassed the Coleslaw Incident of 2011), Just as I was filling the Melitta carafe the second time, the counter extension collapsed and 10 cups of coffee and grounds crashed to the floor. Grinds and coffee everywhere. No pictures. No time. Bad words spoken by me. But cleaned (though we keep seeing evidence days later). And the glass coffee pot was fine!

The tour was great (and very soothing post-incident) and Joey was knowledgeable and funny. We learned about all the types of Cacti here, including Saguaros, Organ Pipes, Chainfruit Chollas, Ocotilla (though technically not Cacti) and Teddybear Cholla:

Here WE are, in our required couple shot by the most-photographed Organ Pipe Cactus in the park:

...and the Arches:

Oh, and when we asked about the UFOs? Well, the Barry M. Goldwater Air Force Range is nearby, and it was likely some kind of maneuvers we were seeing. I am sticking with our UFO story.

In the afternoon, we relaxed beneath our own Ocotilla and got some great Hummingbird shots, including a Life Bird, the Ruffous Hummingbird. Now HE'S a beauty:

We opened the hood of the MoHo like everyone else seemed to be doing. Guess Pack Rats are known to find nesting materials among the wiring, etc.! On to another Ontario Happy Hour with Jane and Henry and another couple.

Here's a view of our Hummingbird Ocotillo from my chair:

Day 21: February 26

We hiked around the campground looking for birds. We were rewarded with a Blue-gray Gnatcatcher, a favourite Phainopepla and a Life Bird (no photo), a Dusky Flycatcher:

After lunch, David and Mandy guarded the site, and I took the 2.5 mile hike to the Visitors Center to mail postcards. It was very hot and the sun was super strong (I am not complaining), so it was a great accomplishment.

I went to the evening Ranger Talk, Sonoran Sunsets, and enjoyed Ranger Sydney's photos and stories. I may have learned a little Physics, Botany and Geology as well (but don't ask).

Here's a Cat's Eye View of Mandy at Organ Pipe:

Day 22: February 27

Not in a rush to head back towards Tucson, we headed a little northwest, thanks to a tip from our Harley-riding neighbours from Wyoming. They mentioned the Painted Rock Petroglyph Site about 80 miles away, so we headed there. There were two Hi/Bye Border Patrol stops (though the second guy tried to trick us, asking if we were US citizens). Oh, and a nice convoy of Alpha Romeos!

We stopped for a Saturday Market in Ajo, a former Copper Mining Town:

One of the murals here reminded us of the Blue Flag we saw at Organ Pipe. It was explained that Humanitarians leave water and food for people crossing the desert illegally into the US:

...and arrived at the site near Gila Bend at lunchtime. It's BLM camping, no services but $8 a night. There are a few RVs here, and we're technically in Site 53, a huge and beautiful spot.

After lunch, we rode to the actual Petroglyphs and were amazed by the quantity and how well these etchings have lasted. Beautiful. This big "pile of rocks":

...became these amazing petroglyphs:

Oh, and just as a saw a Watch for Snakes sign, I saw this guy:

...and a few desert flowers:

Back home, we gathered firewood (yay) and lounged in the shade (it was a very hot day), watching an Anna's Hummingbird at our feeder:

Here's the campfire view of our site:

SW16: Pretty Birds in Patagonia

HBird's Eye View

Couldn't resist this one of a Great Horned Owl we chanced upon on the Bird Trail:

Day 16: February 21

It was a quiet night in our overflow spot. And we could use the Dump Station after 10 days! It's good to know that we can manage that long.

We had some information on San Pedro House, site of a Birding Trail not too many miles down the road. We got there and rode our bikes. 

As everywhere so far, there were very few birds though we did see our first Vermilion Flycatcher of the trip, our first confirmed Gila Woodpecker:

 lots of Green-tailed Towhees and this Loggerhead Shrike:

A couple recommended the Waste Water Treatment Site just down the road (they had been on a weekly guided bird hike there that morning), but, again, not a bird for us. However, we were impressed by the set up for birders here, so we stopped for lunch.

We got to Patagonia State Park, one of the great birding sites written about here in Arizona. We took Site 102 ($27 E/W). Since it was Sunday, the park was very busy since it is on a lake and many anglers, boaters and picnickers were around. We chatted with our neighbours from Alberta and sighted another Life Bird, a Broad-billed Hummingbird.

Here's the view of our site:

Day 17: February 22

We have had some strange musical “luck” while camping. Once, it was bagpipes at Bon Echo Provincial Park. Last night was a Drum Circle nearby!

It was on to the 9:00 Guided Bird Walk. With about 30 people, they split into smaller groups and we were happy to be with John, a quiet, unassuming full-timer from Colorado. It was a great walk along the creek, past cattle (one dead cow), meadows and lots of birds (33 species by my count), including Mr. And Mrs. Vermilion Flycatcher:

We had SIX Life Birds, thanks to John: Gadwall, Lesser Scaup, Plumbeous Vireo, Black-throated Gray Warbler, Violet-crowned Hummingbird and Mexican Duck (only picture):

...oh, and a beautiful some kind of Swallowtail Butterfly (I refuse to start learning Butterflies!):

...but, alas, not the Elegant Trogon, a brightly-coloured southern bird, one of which has been spotted here recently. It was “the bird which shall not be named” because many, like us, struck out on sighting it. A very funny man called me over to show me a picture of what he had just seen (on his Ipod). It was this bird, but then he roared with laughter since it was a picture he had taken years ago. Funny guy!

We chilled for the afternoon and booked another night. Mandy seems happy with the decision:

Here's the view from my chair:

Day 18: February 23

More drumming last night!

We headed out on our own to the Birding Trail and ran into some people who had just seen the elusive Elegant Trogon. We followed their instructions of “go past the meadow, follow the cattle path, then when you hit the wash, look to your right”. Thankfully, there was a guy there with a huge camera lens, so we were in the right place. We watched this beauty for about an hour:

Elated, we continued the walk and saw some more nice birds. Along the river, I looked up (my neck hurts from several days of looking up) and chanced upon this guy:

His colouring was so beautiful that we doubted he was Great Horned Owl, but other birders we pointed him out to said he was for sure, but special with his colouring. He stayed put and we watched him for about 30 minutes. THIS was a good day.

On our way back, we stopped to see ET again (he had moved and the crowds were growing as word got out. So funny, though. I ran into yesterday's jokester with the fake picture and was able to lead him directly to the bird. His wife said it was perfect that it was I that helped HIM find the bird! Here's the back view:

Finally, a favourite bird from our Texas travels, a Verdin, appeared on an orange as we headed back:

Another sunny but windy afternoon. We continue to meet short-term neighbours and are invited over for wine and a fire with some people from Oregon. This has been a great stay. Off further west tomorrow.

SW16: Fine-Feathered Arizona

Sunset View at Whitewater Draw near McNeal, AZ:

Day 11: February 16

Do I need to keep saying what beautiful mornings we are having? Time to move to Arizona.

We stopped in Silver City, NM for supplies and saw the “Laundro Mutt Mobile Pet Groomer”! We crossed the Continental Divide and saw some snow in the mountains and at one point, at road level, in the bush. But it was warm! Actually, as the temperatures increased through the morning, so did the snowy views of the mountains.

As we crossed into Arizona, we crossed into Mandy's 22^nd state (tied with Cassie)! 

We drove into Portal and the Cafe in “town” and saw our first Acorn Woodpecker (Life Bird):

With some info in hand, we headed to the Sandy Flat Campground of the Coronado National Forest in the Chiricahua Mountains. We found a site, walked around, met our neighbours who are from Grand Bend, Ontario, and settled into this beautiful place (Site 3, $10 no services) and saw a few birds:

Here's the view from my chair:

Day 12: February 17

We got up and put out our Oriole/Hummingbird Feeder and a Blue-throated Hummingbird (Life Bird) appeared within seconds. It was a beautiful, clear blue-skied Arizona morning:

We rode our bikes 6.5 km (return) to Cave Creek Ranch where they have loads of feeders and provide seating and birding paraphernalia for $5 per person. Here are some of our sightings there:

...including two Life Birds, a Bridled Titmouse and an Arizona Woodpecker:

We had a quiet afternoon and enjoyed the view of OUR feeders:

Day 13: February 18

It was a beautiful morning, so we decided on a third night here. We watched our own feeders and spotted loads of Mexican Jays and a Yellow-eyed Junco, Lifers for us:

We rode the 6 km into Portal (all downhill with the wind at our backs; you know what that means, right?). We stopped at the adorable Post Office:

Thanks to a local, we saw a Great Horned Owl (who has nested and roosted here for 24 years!):

After a yummy lunch at the Portal Cafe:

...we rode to Dave Jasper's. He has been feeding birds for 12 years (and just moved to this location). He was awesome and loved sharing his love for birds, his girlfriend and Arizona. Here's Dave and his amazing view (note the snow):

He hates House Sparrows, by the way, and claims that a green laser beam or “Our Friend, The Pellet Gun” were handy!

We returned to our feeders. As David was packing away the Hummingbird Feeder, the Blue-throated appeared and buzzed him! So cute.

Day 14: February 19

Clouds???? Yep. But it seemed warmer this morning. We headed out early and saw these sights: the place where Geronimo's surrendered:

...and a “Can-Am Prototype?”:

...and many hawks at the top of hydro poles:

We got propane and groceries at Walmart, where the prices are in Pesos and Dollars (Agua Prieta is just across the border). I had heard about Whitewater Draw nearby, and the guy at the Info Centre recommended it for the Sandhill Cranes, so we headed there. After a short drive down a dusty road, we found the place and noticed a sign for Free Camping, so we found a spot and set up.

Thousands (I heard 7,000 were counted this January, though there were 30,00 reported last year) winter here before they migrate north. They are everywhere, around a pond and in the fields:

There are other birds here and many birders. We saw these; it was nice to see water birds!:

...including a Life Bird, a Green-tailed Towhee:

We met Karen and Jim from Burlington, Ontario, and enjoyed Happy Hour with them.

Here's the view of our free site:

Day 15: February 20

I got up at 6:00 AM and joined the many birders to experience the Sandhill Cranes leaving for the day. They actually spend the night in the water to avoid the predators. I watched for about an hour and was mesmerized by the noise, the floating, and the taking off in groups of 20-50:

TOTALLY worth the early morning.

We had our tourist moment in Tombstone:

...and we were happy to head out after buying my Valentine's present, a Sterling and Stone bracelet!

Some of the birders we met yesterday recommended the Monastery near St. David (okay, irresistible) for some birds, so we headed there:

The place is a Catholic Retreat and has a beautiful Celtic Cross:

...but, alas, no birds.

We thought we'd stay in Benson, but it was early and the RV parks were so open and dusty, so we drove to Kartchner Caves State Park. They were full, but offered Overflow for $15 (water and a picnic shelter) in the parking lot, and we took it.

Here's the view of our Overflow site: