S18: Old Towns and a Big City

Waterfront View

This is the HMCS St. John’s flying its Rainbow Flag in St. John’s Harbour!

Day 28: July 14

We got up to a sunny morning with whales spouting in the cove and a tail or two at a distance. Guess the Caplin are here in Elliston.

We had a short drive to Trinity and the Trinity Cabins and RV Park, not much to write home about but very near the town. After lunch, we took in the Trinity Pageant. This is not like us, but we enjoyed this walk through the old town, led by these two:

…and were entertained and informed by the “Rising Tide Theatre” troupe who sang and told stories about different events in the town’s history. Here are some of our favourite vignettes:

Lots of “steps” on the tour, so a quiet evening in our roadside (and I mean roadside) campsite (#7, $28, E/W):

Day 29: July 15

It was a dull and drizzly morning, so we headed out in the Jeep for a day of good and bad roads and mostly foggy, but beautiful, pictures.

We revisited Trinity Loop and noted that it had deteriorated even more from last year’s visit (the Ferris Wheel is now down):

Next was a rocky road to the Fort Point Lighthouse and a scary up and down ride to some beach glass:

…New and Old Bonaventure (for a picnic but not a drink):

We considered the Skerwink Trail, but the drizzle and fog changed our minds, and we settled for a wharf-side chat with a couple from New Zealand who had borrowed a motorhome in Texas and were travelling the US and Canada. Oh, and the best beach finds ever!

Fog eventually turned us back for a late afternoon relax. Another good day enhanced by “Freddie”.

Day 30: July 16

It was a brighter morning than expected. Our neighbours from Vermont, in an older Roadtrek, had some serious issues (turned out to be a starter), so, in typical Newfoundland fashion, “Scott’s Brother” phoned by “Krista” arrived bright and early to get them sorted. He seemed very optimistic. We think we left them in good hands.

Fog was settling again as we headed to Clarenville for supplies then off to Bellevue Beach to a campground we had visited in a tent years ago. In fact, we’d kayaked from this park, and I was interested in seeing it again.

So we got a waterfront site (#82, $34.75 E/W) and, when we had to move from the original because of electrical issues (our second such problem this trip), the park manager admired David’s “Wyatt Earp” t-shirt (we had bought it for my Dad; we always got him a shirt on our travels and found most of them tucked away, unworn and kept “for good”). Anyway, this guy was a super fan, so David literally gave him the shirt off his back!

This guy once visited the Mainland to cross Canada and turned back in Jasper because he hated it so much. Then a woman we talked to who had returned home from Ontario would do anything to go back to the Mainland. Go figure.

After lunch, I walked the Vinland Hiking Trail until rain forced me back to enjoy this view from my chair:

Day 31: July 17

We woke to fog and drizzle, and as it began to lift, we headed out to explore some backroads:

When we kayaked here years ago, we got caught in this “tickle” and the people in this house called us in, fed us homemade bread and tea, and sent us safely back. A nice memory (should have knocked on the door!):

This area is lovely with small fishing villages, an unusual obelisk of stacked stones, and the requisite cemetery with a lovely view (lots of “Pinsents” buried here):

Back at the campground, we saw these whale bones at a guy’s site. He found them in the spring, retrieved them and is drying them (there is still oil in the bones) and displaying them until he decides what to do with them (he said he’s been offered big bucks for them by an artist):

Back home, we hiked five kilometers on the Vinland Hiking Trail (or Pretty Purple Path):

Day 32: July 18

We were up early and on our way to “the big city” (St. John’s) for a three-night stay. In the past, we’ve avoided the Pippy Park Campground, but we decided to give it a try. Every big city should have a green space and campground like this. It’s accessible by foot, car, and bus to the downtown, yet it is tucked away in a 1300+ acre parkland.

It’s not the fanciest, but we lucked into #U17, an Unserviced site ($33.58) next to the loop with all the big buses. That meant relative quiet while we were there.

After lunch, we headed to Cape Spear and spent three hours whale watching. We were told by the ranger that there was a pod of at least 10 Humpbacks feeding there with their calves. And Puffins to boot (she was excited to see them there since they rarely come to the area since the whales are a little greedy with the Caplin:

Here’s the view of our little, tucked-in spot:

Day 33: July 19

It was forecast to be a hot, rainy, overcast day, and it was! Our Jeep adventures took us to Outer Cove and to Middle Cove where the Caplin were rolling:

…to Torbay for coffee and treats then on to Flatrock:

…Pouch Cove and up a rocky road to Cape St. Francis (and its defunct lighthouse), but WHALES. And a young woman tourist from Poland who landed in Newfoundland, is travelling to New York then to Western Canada before she starts a school year in Edmonton. And she’s mostly hitchhiking (she said few Poles, especially students, have credit cards which she needs to rent a car). I wished her a safe journey.

Our next stop was St. Phillip’s for a nostalgic Fish and Chips lunch from the By the Beach restaurant:

It was very hot by time we returned, and rainy. We chatted with new neighbours (three adult women and four teenage girls all in two tents and all travelling in one van from Ontario. Wow). Later, I walked the campground (David calls it my Snoop Walk) and ran into the Vermont couple with the unlucky Roadtrek in Trinity. Yes, Scott and his brother fixed them up that same day for a good price, and they were safely here. We had a rousing discussion about Trump and her grassroots efforts to get the vote out for November. She’s very committed to change and peace.

A good day.

Day 34: July 20

It was a sunny morning and we were up and out by 9:30 and visited Signal Hill and the Harbourfront (view of each place from each place):

We strolled downtown (and were a bit irritated that the majority of the on-street parking spots require a smartphone to pay; we did find a metered spot):

And Dad is always with us:

With Subway in hand, we settled with many others for one of the Friday lunchtime concerts at the Harbourview Park. The “Youth Performer” was an amazing 13 year-old young woman with an incredible voice. And the feature was a local band who played it all. Great interlude:

Couldn’t resist this (given the open rules about where you can buy Liquor here):

Back home, the Vermont couple moved in next door and we had a rollicking Happy Hour discussion. It was nice meeting Miriam and David!

…

S18: We’ve Got Seagulls In Our Eyes

Waterfront and Sunset View

The title of this post is a paraphrase of a Great Big Sea song. And the photo is at our final campfire on Fogo island:

Day 22: July (Month) 8

Yes, a gorgeous sunny morning for our departure from this lovely place in Robert’s Arm. By the way, Doug and his friends are the first Newfoundlanders to say “July MONTH”, etc. Very quaint. And Doug dropped by to invite us to join them for “Cooked Dinner” Sunday, but we thanked them and headed off. Such lovely people. We’ll be back and recommend this place.

We drove straight through to the Fogo Island ferry, boarded the Veteran:

…had a calm and sunny sail (though no whales or icebergs), and got to the Brimstone Head Campground (Site #7, $30 E/W) for three nights.

We just hung around, visited with our American neighbours, Dan and Joan from Philly, for Happy Hour and enjoyed a campfire with them and Don and Brenda from Sudbury, Ontario.

Here’s the view from my chair (last year, this view featured a whole lot of icebergs!):

Day 23: July 9

It was a beautiful morning AGAIN. Our first stop was the Marconi site:

… and then we drove to Joe Batt’s Arm for lunch:

…then went up and down the roads near the (to me) ugly, fancy hotel (which we hear is always full):

…and settled for this Ice Cream View:

We hiked the hills around the campground:

…and enjoyed a campfire adding Ethel and Daniel from British Columbia and Julie and her sweet son, Edouard, from Quebec, and Elizabeth and Fred from Grand Falls-Windsor, Newfoundland, to our group. By the way, Dan and Joan travel on land and sea to enjoy Irish music, and Don and Brenda are accomplished (and he’s a published) wildlife photographers. What a gathering:

Day 24: July 10

Again, another amazing, sunny morning. We are getting quite the sun tans, so unusual for Newfoundland! David mentioned to a local that it was going to get in the 80s today, and the man said “Not on Fogo Island. The only thing that gets in the 80s is coming out of the oven”!

We drove to Tilting and looked at scenes we’ve seen before and saw a few new things, especially a father and son (I think) tending their potato garden:

Here’s our lunch spot overlooking that plot:

After a short hike at Joe Batt’s Arm, we had a leisurely afternoon (David washed the Jeep and I read). Our campfire was special as we enjoyed the last hours with these new friends, as well as more of Julie’s Fir-based Gin from Quebec which was absolutely delicious and kind of tasted like a Christmas Tree!

Here’s the final waterfront view of Fogo:

Day 25: July 11

Seriously, it was another sunny day for our return ferry ride. But, first, the Lobster Fishermen brought in their traps:

The crossing was great (but I had to drive UP a ramp, then down it when we landed; I am becoming quite proficient with “Freddie” on ferries).

We got some supplies in Gander then headed to Eastport for a two-night stay at the Howard W. Duffet Shriner’s RV Park (Site #139, $42.50 FHU), a pricey but convenient spot on this pretty peninsula.

The campers are mostly seasonal, of “a certain age” (okay, our age, but I digress). We drove around a bit, then, after dinner, crowds started heading to the Recreation Centre across from us. I asked, and it was music night, so we headed over for 8:00 PM. For the next hour and forty-five minutes, we listened to several players and singers perform two songs each. They were all good, though, I must admit, the songs were mostly about forsaken love! One singer’s song about a family’s home being towed behind a boat to a new location for resettlement (called something like “Just a Black and White Photo”) was really moving. The MC and Violet, an amazing harmonica player from Change Islands, really stole the show:

Here’s a view of our very unlevel site:

Day 26: July 12

Well, the forecasted rain began in the morning and continued all day long. So we took a drive, including a stop at a Pharmacy and a drive by a Chip Truck:

…and Ontario thinks we can’t sell alcohol in grocery stores!

Though it was rainy and foggy, we got some great, eerie photos in Salvage and Burnside:

We spent the rest of our day in the MoHo while the rain pounded down. Oh well, we had five amazing, sunny days!

Day 27: July 13

On our way out, we had our first Roadside View of wildlife: a Fox with his stolen Muffin:

And we were back to sun.

We had a, easy drive to Elliston and headed straight to the Maberly Rainbow Picnic Site for a free overnight near Puffin Island (see us in the distance?):

I spent some time on the phone booking our return ferry (now I can plan the next almost two weeks), and after lunch, headed to see the Puffins. And we experienced something new: Puffins within feet of us. Amazing:

With some Seagulls and Gallinules thrown in:

After our fill of these sweet birds, we drove to Cape Bonavista, saw some Humpbacks and probably a Minke whale in a distance and returned to our quiet and beautiful spot for the evening. Here are our afternoon and evening views from my chair: