NL #7 To Labrador and Back

Waterfront View

We went to Labrador for the icebergs, and we were not disappointed. So, we had to feature a good one in this post’s waterfront view.

Day 6 June 26

We left Lark Harbour to head up the Western coast through Gros Morne up the Viking Trail to St. Barbe and the ferry to Labrador.

A good sign along the way:

• Barber Shop and Saw & Tool Sharpening (all in one!)

We stopped for lunch at The Arches Provincial Park and a shot of me and a turtle rock:

I saw our first moose, but it was dead in the ditch. Not a good sign for it or us. We started to see ditch gardens, lobster pot stacks and wood piles along the road:

We were able to get on the 6:00 ferry to Labrador without a reservation and saw Minke Whales, at least one Humpback and our first iceberg: good omens:

We pulled into the trailhead for the Isle aux Perroquets for the night. Here’s our (free) campsite view:

Day 7 June 27

We’re in Quebec, so it’s 1 1/2 hours earlier. Our already early rise (7:00) meant it was only 5:30, but two brothers were heading out to kayak around the puffin rock; we were jealous and had to settle for watching them and the birds:

The day was sunny and gorgeous, so we headed west into territory we had to miss last time because of fog. It was a beautiful drive through interesting topography and fishing villages:

We turned at the end of the highway:

…and caught these falls on our return trip:

Before we headed back to Labrador (and time change), we stopped at Chez Barney’s grocery store and could have bought 60 Coors Light for $86. Don’t you just love Quebec!

We headed towards Pinware Provincial Park and started to see what we came for: icebergs everywhere. In West St. Modeste, I counted 18 just off shore.

We even had a couple just off our campsite (#17, $11.70), so here’s that view:

Day 8 June 28

Blackflies and mosquitoes abound! Glad we’re in an open site. The tent sites are in the bush which would be ridiculous.

We drove to Red Bay. We were disappointed that Saddle Island, the UNESCO World Heritage Site we loved two years ago was closed since the scarce Eider Ducks were nesting. We imagine that some folks would be very angry to discover this after the journey, but we just went on to explore the town and view more icebergs:

Back at the park, I beachcombed, David rode his bike, and we relaxed and enjoyed the sunny afternoon.

There are not many birds of note, but we did see these Red-crested Mergansers:

Here’s another campsite view:

Day 9 June 29

Time to head back to the ferry. They are building the Muskrat Falls Power Terminus in Labrador, and there is a lot of activity. According to our Park guy, people were unhappy about the development (there’s a lot of shoreline being torn up), but opinions have changed since there are good jobs. Two great signs related to this project were:

• Line Dotting Ahead (so cute)
• #1 and #2 Laydowns (temporary housing for the workers)

We made a quick stop at the L’Anse Amour Lighthouse:

…then took the 1:00 ferry back:

A quick lunch stop at Flower’s Cove, the place we loved two years ago, and we headed to St. Anthony. Just before we headed inland, we spotted this Bald Eagle on the beach:

But, alas, no Moose. The best sign today:

• No Hunting When Men Working (of course there isn’t)

We hung around the lighthouse and spoke with Frank, a Korean War Veteran (a US Paratrooper) who was the only Canadian ever to jump in Korea. He also was with his buddy, another Newfoundlander, who was the last US soldier to die in the Korean War. Frank liked to talk and told us where to go to stay and see some pretty icebergs up close.

Then we chatted with the RCMP guy who told us we could go ahead and stay right at the lighthouse even though signs said “No Overnight Parking”. Good to have friends in high places.

We took Frank’s advice (confirmed by the RCMP) and are at the St. Anthony Blight Beach and Park. On our way, we saw some fancy ditch gardens:

Here’s our (free) campsite view:

…which doesn’t look like much until you walk a few yards to the beach and see this:

Newfoundland and Labrador #7-Home to Lark Harbour

Day 1 June 21

After waiting forever to get the MoHo seen to (and missing a short and longer Spring trip), we headed off today for our favourite summer place.

Waterfront View

This is my new theme for this trip, a shot of the best waterfront view of the post. Here it is: Indian Park in North Sydney as we waited for the ferry:

Back to the long first day on the road. We covered just over 1,000 km of smooth sailing. Again, the newer bridge that takes you below Montreal is worth the $3.70! We hit the de la Republique Provincial Park near Edmunston, NB (Site #1, $25.20 full services) and crashed for the night.

Day 2 June 22

We were up and away by 6:00! There was little traffic and nary a Moose despite the many warnings! Another 1,000 km day for David. Despite rain much of the way, we had a safe journey and arrived in our favourite ferry-waiting spot at the Indian Park in North Sydney.

Sadly, too rainy and chilly to get much beach glass here (though the parking lot and beach is filled with it), so we stayed warm(ish), booked the ferry for the next day, and got ready to go.

Here’s the view of the View:

Day 3 June 23

While we waited to board the 11:45 ferry, we noted that we could be well coiffed by the two hair salons (best named salon of the year), nail place and barber shop side-by-side!

Mandy leaped up onto the slide the minute we entered the parking lot!Great memory of the last time? Boarding was slow as they were accommodating a mobile home that was being transported on two tractor trailers. We all boarded, the Blue Puttees went out from the dock, turned around and returned so the trucks could back this behemoth on. Amazing.

We got great seats in the bar looking ahead and got into several conversations with our neighbours. At home, it is rare to strike up such long and personal chats with folks, but it seems natural when you,re “all in the same boat”. We spent time with two guys who were driving one’s daughter’s worldly goods to her new home in Gander, Peg and Dale who were “coming home” (Dale left 48 years ago and has never been back; when his sister called, he answered “Waddya at?” like it was yesterday) and another couple who moved away eight years ago but return three or four times a year!).

Oh, and here’s our “food porn” shot with lunch, snacks and Iceberg Beer:

We landed safely, got some chicken and ate it on the wharf, then headed to the Grand Bay West Beach parking lot for the night. I walked some of the familiar boardwalk and we enjoyed our first night back in Newfoundland.

Here’s the view from my chair:

Day 4 June 24

Up early again after a good sleep and headed to Lark Harbour. The Trans Canada remains a good drive and they continue with improvements. Despite signs and even a Moose Fence, we saw nothing.

The ride from Corner Brook to Blow-Me-Down Provincial park is picturesque as it follows the Humber Arm out to the Gulf. There are several small fishing villages still prospering:

We got to the park around 11, got our Annual Pass and two nights, no services (Site 1) for a grand total of $36.40 at the Senior Rate (35% discount for over 65). Amazing!

We decided to spend the day at the Day Use area and beach (we could stay here for a night or two), did some beachcombing and relaxing. Did I tell you there was snow in the mountains?

While David and Mandy guarded the MoHo, I took the 1 km climb (365 stairs up and 365 down!) that I did several years ago when we were last here to prove I still had it in me. And here’s the proof:

Bottom:

Half way view of the View:

Top view of Lark Harbour:

Nearing the end and the Governor’s Stairway to a sea cave:

and return view of my new hikers and the cove:

We snoozed, moved back to our site, ate dinner and ended a lovely day here in our favourite place!

Here’s the Campsite view:

Day 5 June 25

Well, it rained ALL day!

We stayed by the beach, read (most of a book) and snoozed and just breathed. Saw a Yellow Warbler!

Here’s my view for most of the day!

After 4:00, we headed to Marney’s in Lark Harbour for coffee and delicious baked goods which we enjoyed at Bottle Cove. And that was it: