ECS 23-25

August 16

We always hate saying goodbye to Newfoundland. So, this windy, dull morning reflected our mood.

We sailed pretty much on time, but the seas were pretty high and rolling for 90 minutes or so, and I was glad for the Gravol! We passed the time with a couple from Cambridge (they were talkers!). We got in on time, and drove to a special Nova Scotia spot for the night: St. Peter’s Canal.

On the way, we passed signs for “Flying Stones” and “Leitches Creek” (say it out loud). We paid homage to Rita MacNeil as we passed her Tea Room (I sang “Working Man”). And Bras D’Or Lake was true to its name, with an amazing golden sun setting on the water. Once again, St. Peter’s Canal was populated by older or retired fishermen, and we chatted with one and learned about Snow Crab Fishing (he’d just sold his license and netted $750,000) and how Lobster Season in the Maritimes is staggered, not for the sake of the Lobster, but for the market!

Here’s the lovely view of the View (at our free campsite):

August 17

Another bright morning and we got away early. We passed probably the only SAINT Peter’s UNITED Church (because it’s IN St. Peter’s).

We drove through Nova Scotia and into New Brunswick. I suggested taking the Fundy Coastal Trail to Alma. We passed a lot of tour buses (low tide was ending and those who had visited Hopewell. Rocks were moving on). There were a few signs for “Chocolate River” businesses. And we passed the “Ha Ha Cemetery”.

I mistakenly suggested another coastal road that went nowhere near the coast (and was in pretty bad shape), so we had a rocky hour or so. But we made it to Fundy National Park and decided to stay there ($14.60 Park Fee + $25.50 unserviced site 60).

I walked the campground and down (then UP) a 110-step stairway. It started to rain about dinner time (but it didn’t deter my steak cooker):

Here’s the view from my chair (mostly of the neighbour’s great site):

But this was the view a few steps away:

August 18

It rained all night. Oh, the poor tenters all round us!

We dumped and took on water and headed towards Maine. It was a good drive and the sun was out by noon. We crossed near McAdam, NB which has this beautiful old train station:

This was a small border crossing, so the boys had lots of time to board the View AND make me cut my one tomato so they could see there were no bugs! A first. But note to self, cut your Canadian tomatoes and you can take them over the border!

We took the slow route through forests (and, yes, some leaves were turning), lakes and rivers. We saw three deer (we had to stop for the third).

We decided to stop in Madison, ME at the “Yonder Hills” campground (site 1, $32.40 for full service). It’s a real family place (it’s a Jellystone Park for those in the know). In fact, Yogi, BooBoo and Cindy drove through the park after dinner and I missed a great photo!.

But here’s a view from my chair:

ECS Days 20-22

August 13

Yep, another sunny day. so another hike, this time to the Cemetery and Fox Point.

The Cemetery is very overgrown, which is sad, but you can still see a few headstones, especially this of a 15 year-old girl:

Fox Point leads to yet another beach:

…with Greeps Head at the end. We were debating whether or not it was named that because it had Greeps (Bald Eagles) or LOOKED like a Greep, when we heard then saw two Greeps. Wow:

:

After lunch, I took a last walk on Western Beach.

We really recommend this area of Newfoundland, especially for campers though there is a Motel, a large B&B and probably many other places to stay. It’s off the beaten track for sure, but the location, the park, the ferry to Ramea (and beyond if you have time) are very special. We’re glad we returned. AND we’re glad we had such great weather. They say NOT to come in July (where we were last there) because of rain and fog. August seems just right.

Here’s the final view OF our chairs in Burgeo’s Sandbanks Park:

August 14

Sadly, time to leave Burgeo. We were up, dumped, filled with water, and on the road by 8:30.

We passed only 19 oncoming vehicles this time as we bounced our way through the potholes (but don’t let that deter you from visiting Burgeo).

We saw two Red Squirrels, a sign for “Pine Marten Sanctuary: No Snaring”, then FINALLY, the promised Moose (she was on the road and off before we could get a camera; we haven’t been skunked on seeing a Moose in all of our six trips here!).

We stocked up in Stephenville, then drove to Cape St. George. We passed Jerry’s Nose with its “Let’s Keep Those Frackers The Frack Outta Here” sign (there is oil in them thar hills).

We got to the Boutte du Cap Parc and found “our” spot for the night. There are places you want to visit only once, and there are others you want to return to again and again. This place is a return place for sure because of views like this:

I explored some, then a Leisure van with a couple from BC pulled in near us. We met Paul and Ann, shared beers and wine, and Newfoundland trip ideas (this was their first visit) and really enjoyed this special place.

We saw two seals, maybe a whale, and Gannets, Guillemots, and Kittiwakes.

Here’s the view of The View and our campsite:

August 15

Another sunny start to the day and goodbyes to Paul and Ann. We envy them their next four weeks.

We drove past Mainland to catch up on the two houses that seem to be in competition for some unusual rock decorating (we think this one is winning):

And saw an equally unusual, but natural, rock formation near Kippens:

At Codroy Provincial Park, one of our last stops on our Newfoundland visits, was VERY windy and cold, so no birds this trip (we’ve seen the Endangered Piping Plovers here in the past), but got a view of the Table Mountains, covered in mist:

Next stop was J.T. Cheeseman Provincial Park for a blustery beach walk and, finally, a few birds:

We came in to Port Aux Basques, got some Fish and Chips at Alma’s and found a spot for the night at the Grand Bay West Beach Park. Thankfully, it was before September 21:

Here’s the final view of the View in Newfoundland. It was a great, short visit!

ECS Days 16-19

August 9

We were up bright and early and headed towards Stephenville for supplies and the road to Burgeo. Mandy found her way on to the slide again (where we found her after the ferry ride):

In Stephenville Crossing, we got groceries and then headed in to Stephenville for diesel (as instructed by the Coleman Grocery Store van driver). We got there and he showed up, probably to make sure we were okay. Love Newfoundlanders.

We headed down the 175 km road to Burgeo on the southern shore of Newfoundland. It’s the only road in and out. And it’s not the greatest road; in fact, there are the only “Pot Holes Ahead” signs we’ve ever seen. This is supposed to be Caribou country, but we saw nothing. We drove through three thunderstorms and met about 35 on-coming vehicles. But of course, Dave’s rule of the road prevailed. As we hit the WORST pot hole, we were met by an on-coming vehicle. So funny.

But even funnier was the VERY WORST pot hole right in front of the Highway Maintenance Depot!

We checked in to Site 11 ($41 for three nights, senior rate including seasonal Provincial Pass-crazy, huh?) at Sandbanks Provincial Park. We were here five years ago, with kayaks, in the pouring rain and fog; we knew it was beautiful and wanted to give it a second chance.

We settled in, walked three beaches (there are seven kms of sand beaches here) and picked some blueberries:

The best line today? When we commented on the generous generator hours (8:00 AM to midnight), the Park Ranger said, “We loves our generators in Newfoundland”!

Glad to be here for a few days. Here’s a view of the View and my man from my chair:

August 10

The fruits of yesterday’s labours:

It was pretty noisy last night, but the weekenders were all leaving today. By noon, the campground was almost empty.

We decided to ride the bikes in to town (no small feat when you start with a huge and long ascent out of the park). We road up and down each road, accompanied by the ringing of the church bell. The Anglicans even have someone who pulls the bell (I say he waved at me as we rode by; David says he was beckoning me inside!). We later learned that it wasn’t the priest as we thought. The man is paid $300 a year to ring that bell! It was so quaint to see the older ones walking to church. A great moment.

Burgeo is very pretty and so clean and filled with friendly people. Too bad there are so many hills!

THAT was a hard bike ride, but so worth it. After resting, I went for a walk on Western Beach and declared this a great day in Newfoundland.

A bonus was a sighting of a Boreal Chickadee, a new Life Bird for us! The evergreens around us are filled with Warblers, too:

Here’s another view of the View on Site 11:

August 11

We decided to take the ferry to Ramea, an outport island nearby. We road up that bloody hill again (oops, sorry) and a few more hills to the wharf for the 11:00 sailing.

Because of a festival on Ramea and a Go Home Weekend in Francois (pronounced Fran-SWAY), the ferry was delayed until 1:00. We hung around, met a lovely couple from Stephenville and talked with the guides from Coastal Adventures who were taking 10 people out to Francois by ferry and paddling back for eight days:

Those are our bikes, tied up for the journey:

Time passed, and the ferry arrived, and we had a great sail. We saw a lot of dolphins and one Hump-back Whale! We chatted with the Ramea school’s Vice Principal, a retired teacher from North Bay, Ontario, who has been there three years and will stay working for four more. Great insights into the town.

We rode our bikes around this small island and town of 500. With the fishery gone, things are very quiet. We kept wondering what people did beyond driving around, hanging out when the ferry comes in, or walking to the shops. It was a pretty if HILLY ride (David even MADE ME ride the boardwalk around 1/2 of the island!):

This scrap woodpile is collected all year and set fire to on Guy Fawkes Day when Ramea and Burgeo compete for the biggest fire (as told by our North Bay friend):

After riding and ice cream, we awaited the ferry and chatted with an older fisherman (and that was tough; that was a thick accent). So funny, at 5:00, the town was SILENT! The gentleman confirmed that it was dinner time and no one would be about.

It was a great sail back (Puffins and Dolphins everywhere):

Other than the hilly bike ride home, we had an amazing day!

August 12

We decided to stay two more nights since the weather looks so good.

We hiked to Western Beach and collected more blueberries:

On our way to Greep’s Lookout (Greep is the Newfoundlanders’ term for Bald Eagle) we chanced upon four or five Merlins (another Life Bird) bathing in a small pond (they’re called Barachois here: Bar-Shway):

We climbed a whole bunch of stairs and were rewarded by a whole bunch of beauty (and more blueberries):

It was such a sunny day.

I took another walk along the sandy beaches after lunch and actually found one huge piece of beach glass! That’s very rare here.

Another beautiful day at Sandbanks, and another view of the View: