NL August 5

Hiked 5.5 km
Here’s last night’s sunset (I say two suns; David says it’s just the clouds; I like my perspective better):

We drove in to Grand Bay West, the town next to Port aux Basques to find the beach walk we remember from our first trip here (2001). We found a boardwalk (6 km) and a runner told us that we could either hike it (nope) or drive to the other end and get on the beach (yep).
We saw the horses we remembered, but the beach seemed smaller, and the boardwalk was new and nice (including some fitness stops). We even were educated on the Grand Bay Schist rock formations). It was a nice, nostalgic visit (including a Ruddy Turnstone, a bird we first saw here and maybe the start of our birding interest and a HUGE Gull):





We decided to head to the J. T. Cheeseman Provincial Park and spend the day there on the beach. There wasn’t a soul around, except for one guy in a car. We strolled the beach, found a path through the dunes to an inland tidal pond and were attacked by some territorial Terns. Braving the noise and the dive-bombing, we came across flocks of Semipalmated Plovers and two kinds of Sandpipers (too lazy to ID):



We walked back (in our own footsteps; no one was about):


After lunch, I read and David napped, then, when I set out for a walk, I looked at the guy in the car who was still there. Wow, it was David Ward, a friend from Peterborough/Lindsay who has been living in McCallum (a small, isolated outport on the South shore) for the last five years. When I think of Newfoundland, I often think of him and another friend who together bought a house there. Though they are no longer together, he has stayed there, written a book, published online articles, teaches online and is a member of that community, even working on a lobster boat in season. We had a great time chatting for two hours about life in Newfoundland and changes there, especially in places like McCallum which is now facing the question of resettlement/relocation. This was another special moment for us.
Before we left, we walked some more along the T-Railway (the former railway tracks that are now a provincial park and trails across the province):

We headed back to Port aux Basques to listen to music at their festival and stay for the night. We went right to the wharf and discovered that, because of a little rain and threat of thunderstorm, the music had moved. So we stayed for a while, watched the antics of four New Jersey guys (and a bunch of locals) trying to fix their sail:

As we watched, we decided they were Rumrunners (well, I did) and were like Al Capone getting booze from St. Pierre. Well, later, I talked to one of them and, in fact, they WERE next heading to St. Pierre. Too funny.
We decided we were too exposed here to sleep, so moved to a Coleman’s Grocery Store parking lot overlooking the ocean (with permission) and had a quiet night.
Here’s the view from my chair:

NL August 4

Hiked 3.5 km

Here’s last night’s sunset:

There was some wind and rain during the night, enough to raise the neighbours’ screenhouse and toss it into our MoHo (no damages, but scary at 3:30 AM).

As we headed further west (it seems south to me), we added another Dave’s Rule of the Road: whenever there is garbage or roadkill you’re trying to avoid, a car will pass.

At 10:00, we finally saw the open ocean again (it had been a while). And we had another view of the Table Mountains:

We remember how they amazed us the first time we came here. For some reason, neither of us expected mountain.

Though we’ve driven by the Cape Ray road sign many times, we finally drove out today, and it was amazing. The weather had become quite sunny and warm so we prowled around the lighthouse and rocky shore and learned about the Dorset camp that was unearthed here in the 1950’s and dug and studied in the 1990’s. Several artifacts and building foundations suggest this was a fishing and hunting camp. We even took time to pick a few Bakeapples here:

We drove in to Port aux Basques, another place we’ve barely visited but have left from many times. It is the Astrolabe Festival (this area is known for finding these old ship’s navigational tools) and there were food stalls and other activities. We wanted to hear some music (from the stage that looks like a boat!) but we were tired  of waiting (more tomorrow) so decided to drive to the Rose Blanche Lighthouse along the southern shore:

It was a beautiful drive and though we didn’t bother to pay to walk the trail to the lighthouse (it was free before and only entering the lighthouse cost), we enjoyed the view and some ice cream:

On the way back, we stopped and hiked the Barachois Falls Trail:

Then we pulled in to the Boat Cove Park and Trail and walked part of the trail. This is famous for the sea of Pitcher Plants:

The surroundings and view of Isle aux Morts were so beautiful that we decided to stay here tonight. Another Newfoundland “free” campsite. So this is home for us AND home of Hairyman the Heroic Newfoundland Dog (in keeping with our theme). In the 1820’s, Hairyman and his mistress, Ann Harvey, saved 188 Irish immigrants from drowning after sinking in the rocks. So we felt nice and safe!

Here’s the lovely view from my chair:

NL August 3

Nothing like a sunset over Walmart:

It was a rainy start to this travel day, so here are some signs sights and observations:

• “Berry and Jam Stand & Big Game Cutting”
• Two canoes paddling the Gander River in the POURING rain
• Two runners (marathon types) running in the POURING rain on the wrong side of the Trans Canada and NOT on the shoulder
• Our third time past the “Why Burn?” Christian Church
• Dave’s Rules of the Road
  • whenever there’s something that elevates risk (e.g. narrow bridge, dangerous turn, bicyclist, pylon, etc.)while you’re driving on a two-lane highway, an oncoming car will pass you
• Got our gas pumped by an attendant in the POURING rain
• “No Name Park Trailer Association” official looking sign at a gravel pit “campground”
• first cornfield at Hammond Farms outside Corner Brook (in Humber River Valley)
• Corner Brook Dominion store (when’s the last time YOU saw one of those?) was so packed and busy and so NOT Newfoundland-like

We pulled in to the Barachois Pond Provincial Park (we must dump and take on water) around 5:00 and got to stay in the Day Use area (quiet, secluded with access to the pond) we’d discovered last time here.

Two more days (hopefully) here. We’ll try to make the most of it.

Here’s the view from my chair:

NL August 2

Hiked 8 km (down and up!)

We went to bed with this sunset:

and woke to sun sparkling on our little bay. A good start. to our “unexpected” adventure. With time before our Tuesday (fingers crossed) ferry, we decided to spend the day in St. John’s.

We drove up to Signal Hill and David got this first shot of the harbour from above:

We parked for free at the Interpretive Centre because there was no way we’d find a place for the MoHo below. We could have taken the trolley, but decided to walk.

We had a great few hours enjoying the sun and sights and sounds. There was the harbour:

There was history (long past and more recent):

There were beautifully coloured houses and shops:

There were a few animals (mostly real):

There was even a concert in the park:

And a fish and chips and beer lunch:

Oh, and the crazy climb back UP Signal Hill! It was a good day and we took advantage of the sun (rain expected tomorrow) and drove to Clarenville. And Walmart!

So, here’s the view from my chair: