W15 Days 37-41

Day 37 March 22

We were awakened twice during the night with some loud owls hooting and screeching. The sound really echoed off the canyon walls.

It was time to move on again, despite the warm and sunny day ahead. Just our luck: the best weather waited for big driving days. And just David’s luck: the outlet mall he agreed to take me to wasn’t open until noon, and it was only 10:00!

Highway 40 in Oklahoma is on the Trail of Tears, so we learned more about the removal, and devastation, of the Cherokee, Chickasaw, Choctaw, Muscogee, and Seminole people in the 1830s. This drive is an interesting juxtaposition of the history, the present (the highway goes through several reserves) and the kitsch (Cherokee Trading Posts and Gas Stations with products made in China). Even the bizarre: a town sign for “Lotawatah” just before Lake Eufaula.

Just after the Arkansas State Border, we stopped for a visit at Fort Smith. Originally built in 1817, the fort featured in The Trail of Tears, The Civil War (the rebuilt version), then as a Federal Court:

We stayed at the Springhill Army Corps of Engineers Park ($23 FHU). Mandy looked like it was time to get home:

Here’s the view from my chair:

Day 38 March 23

We decided to take one of the Scenic Byway drives into the Ozark Mountains, a place we’ve never been before. Loved the signs that warned of “Very Crooked and Very Steep Road Ahead”.

These mountains are “low” but pretty as they are beginning to show their spring colours. We visited the Ozark Folk Ways Heritage, Craft, Arts and Culture Center and viewed some beautiful items, and even bought a few.

The drive through Arkansas was pleasant and things got greener and the fields increasingly more flooded as we headed east. By the time we reached the Tom Sawyer RV Park on the Mississippi in West Memphis, we saw why. The river has flooded, apparently because of the snow melting in the Ohio River.

The park had just opened for this part of the season though the river was very high and some sites were still flooded.

We did see a few birds, like this Northern Flicker (moulting, I think):

This park is a great find for the future. It was $32 FHU. Here’s the view from my chair:

Day 39 March 24

It continued to be fine weather in Tennessee, an area we avoided five weeks ago when we were heading south.

Here are some observations:

• the town of Bucksnort (ties with Toad Suck)
• four K-9 units on Highway 65 (twice the dogs were at work)
• a Drug Task Force search in progress (what’s with this state?)

We thought of going back to Mammoth Caves National Park, but decided to stay closer to the highway at the Singing Caves RV Park ($16.50 PA for E/W). Here’s the view from my chair:

Day 40 March 25

We want to put on some miles, so headed out early. We’ve seen the exit for Abraham Lincoln Birthplace National Historical Park many times and decided to go there this time (we haven’t had any of our usual Civil War stops this trip, so this was a way to connect).

The park is quiet and set on the Lincoln family Kentucky homestead. A “symbolic” log cabin is enshrined in a granite building:

Now, the log cabin WAS believed to have been the actual home, but, after the memorial was completed, it was discovered that this was not the Lincoln home. But the cabin is typical of the era and is viewed as “symbolic”.

What is real is the springs that was on their property:

We drove on to Lexington via the Bluegrass Parkway, a great way to travel east/west. The Lexington area was pretty with its many horse farms.

I had noticed some “barn art” in this area and missed taking any pictures of what turned out to be “Barn Quilts”. I will watch for them in the future.

We stopped at the Bluffton/Findlay KOA Park in Ohio, $30 for FHU but the water wasn’t on yet. But we could (and did) use our heater. Here’s the view from my chair (notice how close we were to the highway!):

Day 41 March 26

We were able to empty our tanks as part of the re-winterizing process. We wouldn’t be the first doing that here as the recycling bin was filled with empty RV Antifreeze bottles!

We hit some snow, sleet, a tiny bit of sun and a progressively colder drive home. It was a good drive until the 90 minute parking lot we hit from Yonge Street all the way to Whites Road!

But we made it. It was another great winter trip. It was our second year of sketchy weather in Texas, so we are thinking of Arizona next year. But before that, there’s a spring trip, a summer trip, a fall trip….

W15 Days 33-36

Day 33 March 18

Time to leave Caprock Canyons and continue our nostalgia tour to Palo Duro Canyon State Park.

But the Bison said goodbye first. Love this pic of the metal cutouts and real Bison:

Here are my passenger seat observations for the day:

• heeded the sign to “Watch for Wild Hogs”, but only saw a dead one (right after the sign)
• drove through Happy, Texas, “The Town Without a Frown”, but it was only 46F and most businesses were closed down; not so happy

We took a detour to the Buffalo Lake National Wildlife Refuge, thinking to stay in the $2.00 campground and see some birds and wildlife. But the lake was dry, the day was chilly and the campground was so-so. We headed to Canyon for supplies and drove to the state park.

For maybe the second time ever, there was no room for us at the park. It IS Spring Break. But they suggested the neighbouring “Palo Duro Adventure Park” and we booked two nights ($20 for electric and sewer because the water was turned off!). The “park” is rundown, but the Zipline business is a going concern:

…and it IS close to the park at the top of the canyon.

We drove into the park, took a few pictures and decided to wait for some biking for tomorrow:

Here’s a view from my chair:

Day 34 March 19

The park was crowded yesterday since it was sunny and fairly warm. It was chilly this morning, so a good day to ride.

First, we stopped at the bird blind:

We saw this bird, but don’t know what it is. Any ideas?

After parking in a Day Use area, we rode to the Lighthouse Trailhead. We did this ride in 2011 with Jeri and Gigi and thought maybe we were better riders and could do it again (minus the climb up to the actual Lighthouse rock formation):

We got started, I fell, lost my nerve and that, combined with the much rockier and slicker path, we decided to let the past be past and move on to the “easier” trails (thanks, honey!):

We both went down on the easier trails (it’s a delicate but dirty fall into very red soil), but completed 6 1/2 miles (4 1/2 on trails and 2 on park roads-I love you park roads!):

After lunch in the park, we went back to our little campground for a quiet afternoon.

Here’s a view of our “backyard”, a derelict “Wild West Town”:

Day 35 March 20

Time to start heading east. Here are some observations:

• the “Toot ‘N Totum” (a drive-thru beverage shop)
• “Inspiring Rest Area” with a giant cross, a Calvary scene, the stations of the cross: RVs and Trucks welcome!
• Oklahoma (Mandy’s 19th state!)
• a first: a woman at the Flying J carrying a gas can trying to “panhandle” free fuel

We drove north to Cheyenne to visit the Washita Battlefield National Historic Site. This was where Custer and the 7th Cavalry attacked the Cheyenne camp, killing men, women and children. Not a great moment in American history. The actual “battlefield” was particularly poignant:

…especially with many prayer ribbons/flags tied to the fences.

It was a short drive to Foss Lake State Park, located on a reservoir with very low water. We got a water and electric site for $20 (using a $5 off coin we received at the Oklahoma Welcome Centre):

There was no entry gate, so we had no information about the park or the procedures (you take any site marked “Available” and the Park Ranger comes by later to collect). This Ranger told us the lake was at a 12-year low and conditions were much like the Dirty Thirties!

Love these love birds:

Here’s are two views from my chair (yay Robin!):

Day 36 March 21

Time to move on. We headed out looking for the Washita Wildlife Refuge. We found the Headquarters (closed on the weekends) so had no maps or idea of what to check out.

We did go to a viewing area and got a new Life Bird, a Harris’s Sparrow:

Finding another Refuge location, we took a short trail then found ANOTHER Life Bird in an adjoining filed: a Ferruginous Hawk (dark morph):

On to some Route 66 exploring and BBQ lunch. Following Route 66 was difficult four years ago when we tried, and proved difficult again this year (any advice?). But we got a sign or two:

Our next stop was Red Rock Canyon State Park (in keeping with our canyon theme). There’s a long, narrow road at the bottom of the canyon with tent sites on one side and RV sites on the other. And hikers everywhere, tons of families, Boy Scout Troops, and some people rappeling the canyon walls.

Again, you look for a “Site Available” sign and the Park Host comes by later for payment ($23 for FHU).

We just hung out since it was so incredibly busy (the final Saturday of Spring Break here). I sat outside, enjoying the loud Mariachi/Tejano music from site across from us and just catching some sun. Quiet day.

Here’s the view from my chair:

W15 Days 28-32

Day 28 March 13

Last night, we checked weather between New Orleans and the Gulf Coast and the Texas Panhandle Plains. Believe it or not, the Plains won, and we headed north to San Angelo.

Another driving day, so here are my observations:

• “Tanks Alot” (which sells, of course, tanks of all shapes and sizes!
• Nice town names: Welfare, Comfort, Sisterdale, and Mountain Home
• Cooper’s BBQ where we bought enough to eat for a few days:

• a store selling Antler Lamps and Deer Jerky
• SIX Baptist Church vans heading OUT of Eden!
• a Romney-Ryan sign (huh?)
• a herd of cattle in KickaPOO Creek
• the town of Wall with cotton schmutz everywhere and a Cotton Bale Warehouse and the “Ole Gin Steakhouse”

We got to San Angelo State Park (Site 27, $20 E/W), set up and went for a bike ride (was meant to be just a short jaunt and ended up being 8.8 miles of empty reservoir and Buffalo (Bison):

We chatted with Dean and Nancy, from Guelph, whom I’d spoken with in Seminole Canyon.

Mandy likes it here:

Here’s the view from my chair (yep, David’s wearing shorts):

Day 29 March 14

Today started with a gorgeous sunrise:

It’s Spring Break week here, so there were a lot of activities for kids (but not many kids). We were among the 20 adults and 15 kids who enjoyed the Bison/Longhorn tour. We piled onto benches in a trailer pulled by a good ole boy from Virginia and went into the fenced in pasture.

The Bison are part of the official Texas State Bison Herd and the cattle are 200 of the Texas State Longhorn Cattle Herd. The Bison “charged” us as we drove in (truck = food):

…and they seemed sweet but HUGE:

Loved the Longhorns as well:

So much fun. Back for lunch then for a little more of a rugged bike ride (8 miles today):

Here’s Armand the Armadillo, the view from my chair:

Day 30 March 15

Up early and heading north for a bit of a nostalgic tour to Caprock Canyons and Palo Duro State Parks (from our first trip here). Again, lots of driving so more observations:

• Men’s Correctional Facility and Goat Farm
• Goodyear Tire Proving Ground
• a long line of Wind Turbines near Sweetwater with Enbridge, oil pumping and hydro towers: a little energy hub
• Rotan, “A Genuine Texas Town” was in the midst of cotton fields, a Delinting business, the Boll Weevil Authority, the Gin Company, and Crop Insurance business
• then, miles of nothing, then more cotton, some cattle and more cotton!
• pronunciation of Quitaque (Kitty Quay), home of the park

We got to Caprock Canyons State Park (site 5, $15 E/W) and rode a bit (4 miles) to see the beautiful views:

…some small animals (there’s a Prairie Dog Town here):

…then some big ones, more Bison, running free:

Gorgeous. Here’s the view from my chair (more shorts!):

Day 31 March 16

Remember those free-roaming Bison yesterday? Well, three ran through the campground, so loudly and quickly that we were stunned and didn’t get the camera in time. Wow!

We decided on the Canyon Rim Trail in hopes of avoiding riding DOWN in to the canyon. It started well as we rode through the Bison herd:

…then met some Roamin’ Oklahomans on horses:

Things got a little more interesting as we headed down a little:

…then got crazy as we had to walk down some precarious descents:

…and ride on sandy paths. We ended up at the bottom (and I ended ON my bottom when I fell off my bike on a flat, sandy part) after all.

Though the views were worth it, we STILL had to ride UP this hill (but it was not the road):

We clocked 7.25 miles on the GPS: 5 riding, 2.25 hiking up and down, and 4 feet falling from my bike seat!

It was an uneventful afternoon and evening! But we did see a large flock of noisy birds fly overhead. We had heard the same cries earlier today and thought (and had confirmed) that they were Sandhill Cranes migrating north. What  a great day.

Here’s the view from my chair from this morning, just after the three bulls ran in front of our campsite:

Day 32 March 17 (Happy Saint Patrick’s Day!)

It was a very different day today: at least 25 degrees F cooler and very windy.

But we dragged our sorry butts back on to the bikes and rode the Canyon Rim Trail until THIS point (which was the first decline from yesterday);

Not a Bison to be seen, but the Prairie Dogs were their squeaky cuteness:

Lunch and a nap (I AM still recovering!) and we headed out for another ride (8 miles total today) on roads only. we stopped at the Discovery Centre and learned that we had NOT seen Bison last time since that was the first year they were let out to run free,

We met up with the neighbours and learned we had seen one couple (Pecos Bill, another real “cowboy”) and his wife at South Llano. Love the look of these guys.

We saw the three bulls from yesterday having a drink in the lake:

…and confirmed how BIG these animals are:

Then one more tiny creature, and a Life Bird, a Vesper Sparrow”":

So glad we came up north!