SW16: The Trace, Some Friends and Home

Bird's Eye View

This beautiful Red-headed Woodpecker welcomed us to the Meriwether Lewis Campground on The Natchez Trace:

Day 40: March 16

It was time to head a bit further north. Past Fuquay Street (eeks) in Baton Rouge! We made a quick Civil War stop at Port Hudson. There was a trail through the scene of a 40+ day siege and battle here in 1863. It was hot and humid and we were in shorts and t-shirts. It is hard to imagine being engaged in battle here from May to July, dressed in wool:

We continued further north to the Oakley Plantation where John James Audubon spent three months teaching and painting 32 pictures of birds. Once again, we noted that a “plantation” does not necessarily mean “Tara”:

But there were some interesting items, including a Poker Table staged with “pieces of eight”:

...oh, and some domestic birds:

By the way, a note on ageing: I love being carded when trying to buy wine in the US. I love saying I'm 62 (I'm now 61) to get free entry into a site. But the guy at Oakley charged me for two Seniors without asking. And I was miffed. That's me in a nutshell!

We drove to Natchez, got some supplies, did NOT get BBQ (bad directions on my part) and stayed at the Natchez Traces State Park ($13.90-SENIOR-E/W).

Here's the view of David in his chair. Later, that view of the hollow was filled with sparkling Fireflies!

Day 41: March 17

We had a quiet drive to the Jeff Busby Campground (free, no services) on The Trace with a few stops:

I took a short hike to one of the highest spots in Mississippi before it started to storm. So, no Fireflies tonight:

Day 42: March 18

I am sad today. I read that my young friend, Courtney Druce, the inspiration for all my Pink in the Rink photos, is in hospice care. She's only 27. And she's amazing.

Our lunch stop brought two things: another Life Bird (that's 18 this trip), a Carolina Wren:

...and the realization that the switch that opens and closes our propane (for the generator, etc.) was not working. So, we got to the Meriwether Lewis campground (free, no services) and David spent time MacGyvering a solution (he was successful). So we had a beer and enjoyed the view of the Red-headed Woodpeckers all through our backyard hollow:

Day 43: March 19

Okay, it was starting to get cold. Our intention was to drive to Northwestern Kentucky for a stop on the BBQ Trail and the John James Audubon State Park (a theme). We drove to Henderson, KY, could NOT find two BBQ places (David says we must chance upon them, not look for them), found that the Audubon Park wasn't open for the season yet, so just continued north.

But not before we saw this sign:

Take a closer look. Not just the Trump “endorsement” (which we thought the Armed Forces were not allowed to make), but the name of the street, the number of seconds on the “Don't Walk” signal and the “Heaven's Gates and Hell's Fires” signs behind (it's an Easter movie being advertised at all the churches in Henderson). Interesting tableau, right?

We got to the Lynnville, Indiana County Park ($18 E/W) just as rain and hail started. Here's the view from my chair:

This was Mandy's 23^rd state-one more, so far, than Cassie. She was impressed:

Day 44: March 20

This morning was only the second time in our entire trip when weather (cold and pouring rain) “dampened” our spirits. Especially since we had to RE-winterize today. But we completed the task and headed north east.

Within 15 minutes, the skies cleared and we had a sunny drive to Perrysburg, Ohio, The most interesting thing today? Ohio Police drive Chargers AND Mustangs. Wow.

We got to Linda and Denny's house for wine, pizza and a great catch up with our friends. That was the icing on the cake! Here's a view from my chair:

Day 45: March 21

We slept in, then were treated to breakfast (yummy Cinnamon Bread!) and headed HOME.

The drive was okay. In Detroit, we had our first ever encounter with US Customs and Border Protection. We were questioned by one guy in black and asked to pull over. Next, three guys dressed in black asked us to exit the vehicle. They boarded and checked things (I think they were more worried about Mandy than anything else) and we had to stand outside and keep our hands out of our pockets. Really, they were all funny and nice, but the wardrobe is intimidating.

There was no snow on the ground during the drive though there were intermittent snow squall. We got home around 5:00.

This was another wonderful trip. The jury is out on Arizona. We're interested in exploring New Mexico further, and we still love Texas and Louisiana. Can't wait until the next trip. 

SW16: Birding and Biking the Bayou

Bird's Eye View

Wow, the things you find in the swamp when you least expect it!

Day 37: March 13

Having been skunked out of gators and Spoonbills at Brazos Bend, we decided we'd revisit the Cameron Prairie National Wildlife Refuge. And we were not disappointed. Not only did we see some nice birds:

...including this flying Spoonbill:

...and these Ibises:

...and these migrating Snow Geese:

...and a Cormorant that never did swallow the Catfish:

...we also saw this turtle...

and 18 (!) Gators (including a smiling one) in the 3-mile loop:

The trip was worth it.

We continued east on Highway 82, through high waters (it has rained a lot) and people fishing from every bridge and pitch-out. There is still old damage from Katrina, but flooding seems a way of life. The houses and “camps” are built on stilts:

...and people even called theirs “Our Cajun Hi Rise”!

We got to Palmetto Island State Park and decided to stay for two nights to decompress from all the driving. We took Site 14, but a strange odour and a chat with our Ontario neighbours, Marj and Ross from Owen Sound, led us to find the discarded crawfish shells and rice tossed all around the campsite. Guess there was quite a party last night.

So we moved to Site 17 ($18 E/W plus $6 processing fee for the first night). We took a short bike ride and David noticed a “something” in my front tire and Ross said it was a Goat Tooth thorn. When we pulled it out, all the air went out of the tire. Of course it did. But we're happy to be here.

Here's the view from my chair:

Day 38: March 14

We patched the bike tube and set off for a 6-mile bike ride on every paved road in the park (things were wet!). We spotted eight gators in the Evangeline Pond (I sing that Emmy Lou Harris song a lot here). And my tire went flat again (it's hot and sunny and we think the glue on the patch just melted).

So we fixed it and just hung out for the afternoon, though I did ride a bit more and heard “the big ole hawg” someone had pointed out to me!

Nice day on the Bayou!

Day 39: March 15

We had plans to go to New Orleans or to the Gulf Coast, but rain warnings made us decide to stay close by, where the weather was to be good, and to explore more of Louisiana.

So, we headed to Lake Fausse Pointe State Park, an hour and a half away.

Here's what we saw en route:

• blue flashing lights and prisoners picking garbage, complete with striped pants:

• flooded rice fields filled with crawfish pots (and Great Egrets eating up a storm)
• “The Dixie Chopper: The World's Fastest Lawn Mower”
• a group of men prepping a pig for a BBQ
• roosters in shelters made from old election posters (and penned Pit Bulls; I'll leave that to your imaginations)
• beehives on the levee:

We got to the park early, and it was mostly under water. Most sites had a dry parking area with water all around. Some tables and firepits were under water! We chose Site 24 ($18 + $6 processing, E/W) as a fairly dry spot.

We rode our bikes on all the dry, paved roads and ole Owl Eyes (me) spotted this Barred Owl fishing. As we watched, she also took her catch, a crawfish, over to her nest to feed her chick (we could see the little ball of fluff moving). It was an amazing sight.

Oh, and a little later, I spotted this matching Gekko:

...and this gator:

After lunch, we decided to ride the levee:

... then Eagle Eyes (David) spotted this one:

After a 22 km biking day, we relaxed at our site. Our neighbour told us to expect a lot of noise over night (we are basically in a swamp!). Before we packed it in, we saw this sweet little Yellow-crowned Night-Heron just across the road:

A nice way to end the day at our swamp-side campsite:

SW16: Goodbye TX, Hello LA

Bird's Eye View

Not a lot to choose from in these two driving days, but here's a cute Wild Turkey who thinks he's an Alligator:

Day 35: March 11

It rained again last night, but the morning looked good for a day of driving. We headed towards Choke Canyon State Park. It was a long drive and featured these observations:

• BBQ from Cowboy's BBQ Station in Alice
• lots of Blue Bonnets in the ditches

• a series of billboards: Homemade Kitchen; Monster Burger; Tire Service (as in spare tire from eating the Monster Burger?)
• “New Wine Worship Center”
• Valero Refinery in Three Rivers (with a Shell station across the road)

We checked in to Choke Canyon State Park (near Three Rivers). It's a fishing park (and a catching park since the cleaning tables were busy). We rode our bikes everywhere and saw the Turkeys, some waterfowl, and returned to five deer in our backyard (I find the first picture hysterical: she's pooping!).

Here's the view from my chair in campsite 113 ($22 E/W):

Day 36: March 12

Time to try Brazos Bend State Park again, so off we went.

As we passed a Federal Prison, I noted that the first track trap we've seen since noon yesterday was for the prison! We're long past Mexico now.

Highway 59N (we drove two “N” highways today, so I guess we're officially heading home) is a nice drive through small Texas towns, with notable billboards:

• Berclair Ranch: Where President Bush Hunts
• Victoria's HUGE Sheriff's building with three Bail Bonds Offices across the road
• FullAutoFirearms.com
• “Eat, Fuel, Flush” (for a truck stop and restaurant)

As we joined the lineup to enter Brazos Bend, we weren't optimistic since we had no reservations and it was the first Saturday of Spring Break! And yes, there was no room for us. Though disappointed for a few minutes, until we realized the park was FULL of families and lots of kids. Not our favourite way to camp. So we decided to head to Louisiana.

That meant Houston! It was a fairly decent passage through this big city, somewhat slowed by traffic for Spring Break, a Gun Show and a Rodeo. But we survived and hoped to stay at the Welcome Centre in LA.

As was our luck for the day, it was closed for renovation, so we drove farther until the Sulphur Walmart. It was safe, reasonably quiet and looked like all Walmarts, so no view from my chair!

SW16: Mission Accomplished

Bird's Eye View

The sunsets are not as spectacular here, but the birds are. So I'll start with a favourite bird picture this time: “twin” Green Jays at Bentsen-Rio Grande State Park in Mission, Texas:

Day 32: March 8

We leave Falcon and head slightly south to Salineno, where Merle and Lorna (and this year Bob) tend feeders for Texas Fish and Wildlife, right on the Rio Grande. And to prove it, here's a shot with Mexico on the left, Texas on the right, and a Border Patrol boat in between!

The birds are still plentiful:

And we saw what we REALLY came for, Audubon Orioles:

We stayed for a couple of hours and enjoyed the comings and goings and Merle and company. Strangely, Bob relished firing pebbles near the Red-winged Blackbirds using his slingshot. Odd for a birder, but effective. It was a beautiful stop.

On we went to another “perennial” stop for us, The Chimney RV Park in Mission. Our “neighbours” for the past three years, now, Dan and Patty from Kansas, welcomed us back. It was HOT! We hung out in our site 39 ($21 Full Hookups-PA), enjoyed the air conditioner, and hoped we'd avoid the storms they were predicting.

Day 33: March 9

It was a crazy night. First a train went through, blowing its whistle LOUDLY around 11:30. Then the storm DID come around 3:30. Then a little later, there was a lot of commotion with cars and sirens either in or near the park (I was determined the last was to do with a very fit senior man I saw climb UP the levee wall yesterday and, when he got to the top, shifted his handgun from his pocket to his waistband-seriously).

And all that led to non-stop rain all day. We were housebound. I read, David tagged pictures, and Mandy slept.

I did get out for a short walk during one break in the weather and got this view from my chair:

Day 34: March 10

We've had such great weather every day until yesterday, so hoped this would all end. Despite overcast skies, we packed up and drove to Bentsen-Rio Grande State Park for some more birding.

It's a great biking and birding park, so it's made for us!

Here are some shots of birds and little beasts from two feeding stations and the Comfort Station:

...and a Roadrunner from the road (he posed for David in all his glory):

...and a group of Hawk lovers on the Hawk Tower that helped us see a Life Bird, a Hooked-billed Kite (only a speck in the binoculars, but confirmed all around).

We got back and, after lunch, decided to ride along the levee (and no, the Border Patrol wasn't following David):

We saw a turtle:

...and visited La Lomita Chapel:

...and rode through an amazing county park. Over my right shoulder is the park in Texas:

...and over my left, the sister park in Mexico!

This was a very busy day after the day of nothing yesterday!