Fog, Friends and Fishing

Waterfront View

This one is not the ocean, but it’s a beautiful view of a Salmon river in Springdale:

Day 24, July 8, 2017

Nothing to say here. It was foggy, rainy and windy all day. Every once in awhile, we looked out when it was clear, and, of course, could see Whales!

But mostly, here’s the view from my chair all day:

Day 25: July 9, 2017

MORE fog, but we took a quick walk to the waterfront and saw a Sea and Gannets diving and feeding up a storm.

But that’s all we could see, literally.

So, off to Conception Bay South and our friends. When we saw the Hawco Seniors Residence, I realized how many Doyle, Mercer, Critch and, now, Hawco roads and signs we have seen!

We got close to the Morgans and had a little time to kill, so I beachwalked and boardwalked at Holyrood:

Then we had a fabulous lunch and visit with Beulah and Gordon Morgan. We met them in 2009 on the ferry back to the mainland, and Beulah and I have corresponded ever since (she beats me to the Christmas letter every year!). They have a lovely home, big hearts and the best senses of humour. We ate and drank tea and talked and laughed and even visited their daughter and son-in-law’s farm.

Their house is filled with pictures from generations of their families, and we ogled the shot of Gordon as part of the winning team of the 1966 St. John’s Regatta (he actually was on two winning teams!):

Beulah is a real storyteller and was featured in the Downhomer magazine a few times (I even replied to one of her stories and MY letter was printed):

A lovely, lovely day with our dear friends:

We drove to Cape Spear, through St. John’s harbour, to Signal Hill and Downtown (people were walking pigs!), but were deterred by the crowds on a sunny Sunday.

We DID see the Veteran in drydock (that’s the ferry for Fogo Island that’s been out of commission for weeks!):

We spent the night at Butterpot Provincial Park ($13.10 Senior, Unserviced). Here’s the view from my chair (take THAT Ontario Parks!):

Day 26: July 10, 2017

So, I guess we’re officially starting our ride “home” today. I am always sad when this begins, but also a little happy to head back to Western Newfoundland, which we much prefer to most parts of the East.

Clarenville declares itself the “Canada Goose Sanctuary”. Isn’t every part of Canada that?

We dropped into Charlottetown (NL) and Gander for Ches’ Fish and Chips (best remain those from Critch’s at La Scie!). I thought there might be some “Come from Away” notes in Gander, as in “the Town that Inspired…”, but nothing.

A couple of signs:

• Big Game Cutting (a sport?
• Mark’s Market (and Weigh Scales)

Oh, and the companion piece to the amusement “rides” we saw at the Trinity loop!

There are a lot of Caution Moose and Caribou signs in Newfoundland. But then we saw a caution Cow sign near Badger. It’s been awhile since we’ve seen a Moose, and not one Caribou, but we DID see a cow at Beulah and Gordon’s family’s farm. Oh well. Moose and Caribou Liars!!!!

Okay, nine minutes after I wrote those disparaging remarks, I saw Moose #10!

We got to George Huxter Memorial Park in Springdale, another favourite. We enjoyed an actual sunny and warm time outdoors in Site 20 ($25, E/W). For the record, when David checked the power box before we plugged in, he got a “No Ground” reading. We got the park to check it out, and they were concerned enough to shut the breaker on this and the next site AND give us a “Night on the Town” refund. Love this place.

When we arrived, there was one guy fishing for salmon (see our Waterfront View above). On our walk later, there were five. Then we watched a man walk out, first up to his waist then onto the perfect rock up to his knees. Then a couple walking out’ he with butt in mouth, she with butt exposed as her shorts drooped down as they got wet (it’s like TV):

After dinner, I went down to join “the boys” at the Gazebo. I got me some Moose sausage (sorry), lots of “my loves” and “my darlings” and watched the crowd now of 16 anglers. One caught one to keep and another to release. A perfect night!

Beyond these lily-white and unshaven legs (first shorts of the trip) and Red Solo cup, is the view from my chair (and beyond that, the Salmon river!):

NL #8: Old Roads, New Roads, Bad Roads

Roadside View

A quintessential Newfoundland scene in Grates Cove:

Day 19: July 3, 2017

Despite at least three cars coming in and checking us out (we noticed a “No Loitering” sign in the morning), it was a good night.

We took a bumpy drive through Musgrave Harbour (man, these roads…) and stopped for supplies (but no Lion Chops):

We took a new road to Lumsden’s Long Point Beach. Gorgeous, and the town has a $10 a night, no frills campground right at the beach. Very smart:

The guy at the gas station said that when he thought of Peterborough, he thought of Stompin’ Tom Connors and didn’t know why. David explained we were the start of the stomping board, and he was happy to know that!

We wanted to go back to Cape Freels (the real place that “Random Passage” was written about), but the road was a washout, literally. so, on to Newtown, the “Venice of Newfoundland” and a tour of buildings and the craft store:

We met a Mom and Daughter who were descendants of the two survivors of the …sealing disaster that is commemorated at Elliston. Here’s Amanda at her Great Great Grandfather’s house:

And here’s today’s “glass”:

We took another new road to Greenspond, and it was totally worth the drive to this sweet town with its churches, trails and glorious views (and a few icebergs):

Here’s the view from my chair from another trailhead campsite for tonight:

Day 20: July 4, 2017

It was a gorgeous, sunny morning. as we headed out, we saw something you don’t see every day: a man walking down the road carrying a hatchet (which he waved at us) and a chainsaw!

We passed the “Sincerely Yours” Funeral Home and got coffee across from this band (Great Big Sea?):

In Bonavista, we chatted with some Harley Drivers, part of a group from Windsor (we’d met another couple in Fogo). Their local dealer had arranged the trip, including airfare, accommodations, routes AND transport of their bikes to St. John’s (we asked and the bike transport was $1500). Great idea, and they were happy.

There were people everywhere, something we always forget when we hit the East side of the Island! But we saw some sights in the Dungeon Provincial Park:

Oh, and a perfect pair of inspired pictures:

We drove on to Elliston (The Root Cellar Capital of the World):

and stopped to complete our Newtown story at the Sealing Disaster memorial where we found the names of Amanda’s Templeman ancestors:

By the time we got to our free Maberly site for the night, it was raining, so no Puffins for us. But there was this view from my chair:

Day 21: July 5, 2017

It was an evening of “Technical Difficulties” with a need to defrost the freezer and a power outage at the rear of the MoHo. All was soon resolved!

So we headed out to the Puffin Rock in the wind and rain and were delighted as always by these sweet birds. They’re nesting, so not bringing fish (of which there are few) back to the chicks yet. but, oh, they are so cute:

Oh, and there were a few Guillemots, too!

Time to drive on down another new road. David had read about the Trinity Loop and Amusement Park in Hidden Newfoundland, so we set out to find it, and DID!

The train made a loop here and someone constructed a park there. It’s been abandoned for a long time and vandals have destroyed much of it, but it was really something to see:

This place is by Trinity where we stopped for lunch at the Parish Hall:

and today’s glass (an Anglican Church with Stars of David in the windows; anyone know why?):

Clarenville Day, so no Walmart! But a quick drive to Long Point, the scene of last visit’s Capelin Catch. But they’re not rolling yet, so just beach art, beach finds and a spooky view from my chair up the Southwest Arm:

Day 6: July 6, 2017

This morning, during breakfast, David shouted: “Thar she blows” (or maybe just “Whale!):

Off to the top of the Avalon and Grates Cove, past Dildo and Shag Rock (enough said).

Then through Heart’s Delight/Desire/Content (and I was with mine!).

Did you know they make their women walk in Newfoundland? Every road we’ve been on, there are women walking briskly, chatting and smiling. Wonder where the men are?

At Grates Cove, we settled into the town’s free campsites, and within 10 minutes, saw two or three Humpbacks spouting in the distance.

I went walking and got today’s glass (Mogen David again) :

I spoke with Dean, from Ottawa. Two years ago, they started to build a new house and garage across from the campsites. This year, they’re nearing completion of a three-storey home that’ll have a great view. He offered to fill our water tank (we did) and told me that there were two or three houses with Peterborough people and two from Warkworth.

Walk #2 with David was more adventurous, and we saw good views of the rock walls that were built in the early 18th Century by settlers to mark their property:

We chatted with some Newfoundlanders (hard to find in Grates Cove) and enjoyed our evening and this Roadside view:

Day 23: July 7, 2017 (My Parents’ Anniversary)

Two more new roads to Red Head Cove and Bay de Verde:

then down past Carbonear for a shop and to Witless Bay for some whales. Despite a lunch stop and a former viewing stop near Renews, we were skunked, so kept driving.

Again, bad roads, and David said it might be a while before we return to Newfoundland. Poor guy really sees no more than 50 feet in front of him looking for potholes.

We got to St. Vincent’s Beach where a woman, yesterday, said she saw Humpbacks only a few yards off shore. We hesitated to believe her (like the Caribou Liars!) but, not long after we arrived, we saw this:

In fact, we saw a tandem breach, but couldn’t get a shot. Amazing. best view ever from our free campsite!