RV Trips: NL #7 To Labrador and Back

Waterfront View

We went to Labrador for the icebergs, and we were not disappointed. So, we had to feature a good one in this post’s waterfront view.

Day 6 June 26

We left Lark Harbour to head up the Western coast through Gros Morne up the Viking Trail to St. Barbe and the ferry to Labrador.

A good sign along the way:

Barber Shop and Saw & Tool Sharpening (all in one!)

We stopped for lunch at The Arches Provincial Park and a shot of me and a turtle rock:

I saw our first moose, but it was dead in the ditch. Not a good sign for it or us. We started to see ditch gardens, lobster pot stacks and wood piles along the road:

We were able to get on the 6:00 ferry to Labrador without a reservation and saw Minke Whales, at least one Humpback and our first iceberg: good omens:

We pulled into the trailhead for the Isle aux Perroquets for the night. Here’s our (free) campsite view:

Day 7 June 27

We’re in Quebec, so it’s 1 1/2 hours earlier. Our already early rise (7:00) meant it was only 5:30, but two brothers were heading out to kayak around the puffin rock; we were jealous and had to settle for watching them and the birds:

The day was sunny and gorgeous, so we headed west into territory we had to miss last time because of fog. It was a beautiful drive through interesting topography and fishing villages:

We turned at the end of the highway:

…and caught these falls on our return trip:

Before we headed back to Labrador (and time change), we stopped at Chez Barney’s grocery store and could have bought 60 Coors Light for $86. Don’t you just love Quebec!

We headed towards Pinware Provincial Park and started to see what we came for: icebergs everywhere. In West St. Modeste, I counted 18 just off shore.

We even had a couple just off our campsite (#17, $11.70), so here’s that view:

Day 8 June 28

Blackflies and mosquitoes abound! Glad we’re in an open site. The tent sites are in the bush which would be ridiculous.

We drove to Red Bay. We were disappointed that Saddle Island, the UNESCO World Heritage Site we loved two years ago was closed since the scarce Eider Ducks were nesting. We imagine that some folks would be very angry to discover this after the journey, but we just went on to explore the town and view more icebergs:

Back at the park, I beachcombed, David rode his bike, and we relaxed and enjoyed the sunny afternoon.

There are not many birds of note, but we did see these Red-crested Mergansers:

Here’s another campsite view:

Day 9 June 29

Time to head back to the ferry. They are building the Muskrat Falls Power Terminus in Labrador, and there is a lot of activity. According to our Park guy, people were unhappy about the development (there’s a lot of shoreline being torn up), but opinions have changed since there are good jobs. Two great signs related to this project were:

Line Dotting Ahead (so cute)
#1 and #2 Laydowns (temporary housing for the workers)

We made a quick stop at the L’Anse Amour Lighthouse:

…then took the 1:00 ferry back:

A quick lunch stop at Flower’s Cove, the place we loved two years ago, and we headed to St. Anthony. Just before we headed inland, we spotted this Bald Eagle on the beach:

But, alas, no Moose. The best sign today:

No Hunting When Men Working (of course there isn’t)

We hung around the lighthouse and spoke with Frank, a Korean War Veteran (a US Paratrooper) who was the only Canadian ever to jump in Korea. He also was with his buddy, another Newfoundlander, who was the last US soldier to die in the Korean War. Frank liked to talk and told us where to go to stay and see some pretty icebergs up close.

Then we chatted with the RCMP guy who told us we could go ahead and stay right at the lighthouse even though signs said “No Overnight Parking”. Good to have friends in high places.

We took Frank’s advice (confirmed by the RCMP) and are at the St. Anthony Blight Beach and Park. On our way, we saw some fancy ditch gardens: