NL #7 Bonavista to Baccalieu

Waterfront View

There is going to be a lot of pictures of these little guys; they even made the waterfront view!

Day 20 July 10

Well, “I can buy as good as that, down in Bonavista” is also part of that song, so off we went. We had an easy drive along the Trans Canada (no Moose) and took Route 233. It’s probably a good time to mention the quality of the roads in Newfoundland and Labrador. David says he wishes we had the “Caution Pot Holes” and “Bump Ahead” sign-making business! And this route was a perfect example. But, it did lead to a mini Hopewell Rocks:

and a lovely lunch spot in Plate Cove East where David sent me out beachcombing:

Though the roads suck, they are beautifully lined with loads of Lupins:

We continued straight to Cape Bonavista and the lighthouse:

From there, we got our next closest view of Puffins:

…and did watch some whales a way off shore. We drove through Dungeon Provincial Park:

But it was so windy! We got some food and decided to stay at the Landfall Municipal Park for free at the feet of “Jonathan Cabot Seagull”:

The view from my chair was of this rock with some small sheep and a small ship:

Day 21 July 11

It was another dreary, cold start to the day. Too many of these this trip. But, it IS Newfoundland people keep saying. We walked around town a bit and took in some of the sights including the Bridge House, “the oldest residential structure in Newfoundland” complete with documented construction date (1811-1814) and name of the first owners and the builder. It’s beautiful but falling apart; they need to restore it soon:

We rarely go into museums, etc., but decided to head into The Ryan Premises National Historic Site:

Right from the welcome and orientation by Bonnie, we enjoyed the visit thoroughly. It holds excellent displays of the province’s fishing (especially cod) history, with a little sealing thrown in. This is housed in restored “premises” and home of James Ryan who literally “owned” the early settlers in the area since their livings depended on fishing and salting cod and “selling” it to Ryan for credit at “the company store”. The upstairs museum was particularly interesting, not just for the display of artefacts, all donated by Bonavista residents. When I was recalling how my grandmother used sugar bags for her tea towels like those on display, she told me how she had clothes made from sugar bags but got her first store-bought dress right there in Ryan’s, a Robin’s Egg Blue that she remembers to this day. Lovely story.

We shopped at Swyer’s, there since 1892:

It was an historical morning! Next stop, Elliston, one of our favourite places in Newfoundland! It’s a pretty town, famous for its Puffin Rock and Root Cellars (there are more than 130):

But as of last year, it also houses the “Home from the Sea, John C. Crosby Sealers Interpretive Centre”. We didn’t go in, but did visit the memorial:

This bronze depicts a father (47) and his son (17) who, among scores of others from the area, were lost at sea during the 1914 sealing disaster on the S.S. Newfoundland and the Southern Cross. This is a moving tribute with a list of the names and ages of those lost. It seems that sealing lured young men despite its poor pay, atrocious conditions, injury or death.

We found our place for the night at the Maberly Rainbow Picnic Site:

…and strolled over to the Puffin Rock despite the chill and winds. And we were rewarded, of course:

We spoke with a Toronto couple who comes here most years for two weeks and just sits and watches and waits and takes pictures with their fancy cameras and heavy lenses. They even use a stuffed Puffin decoy!

Back at our free campsite, we watched at least a dozen whales spouting and breaching and slapping the water. They were way out, so no pictures, but we are always thankful for our 10 X 30 IS Image Stabilizer binoculars (I just copied those letters and words from the device).

Here’s the view from my chair (there really were whales out there!):

Day 22 July 12

Since we arrived in Newfoundland, we have seen signs for boat tours from which you can see “Puffins, Whales and Icebergs”. Well this morning, we saw all three from our campsite. And there was sun:

Back to the Puffin rock for some more fun (we took some video, too), though no birds landed nearby:

They were joined by some Guillemots as well:

Since the Caplin are late this year, there is not a lot of feeding being done, but seeing the Whales means things are changing quickly.

Next stop, Trinity. We drove through Little Catalina (not sure of its claim to fame, but there WAS an elephant and a boxing ring in someone’s yard):

…Catalina, and Port Union, “Canada’s Only Union-Built Town”:

…then coffee in Port Rexton at Two Whales Cafe, lunch in Trinity and a walk through the picturesque town:

The Anglicans might “win” over the Roman Catholics in the beauty race:

…especially since they had a Star of David stained glass window:

We left and headed up Route 204, a new route for us past some pretty towns and stopped at Long Beach for a free and beautiful campsite with this view and these beach finds:

Caplin were starting to roll and we watched a Minke Whale just off shore. I chatted with Conrad, a Long Beach resident, who had lived in Toronto for 20 years and dreams of going back. He told me to watch for Caplin tomorrow! This was a perfect spot.

Day 23 July 13

The Caplin are rolling! We headed down to the next beach, and David joined the boys and netted us some supper. He even cleaned them (much to Mandy’s delight):

It rained the rest of the morning and we holed up at a Visitors’ Centre before heading up the Baccalieu Trail. We pulled into each town and cove and looked around for a place to stay. Of course, we stopped at Dildo:

…got some baked goodies in Green’s Harbour and are staying at the wharf in Heart”s Desire for free for tonight. And here’s the view from my chair: