Waterfront View
A dory used for dulsing at Dark Harbour, Grand Manan, NB:
Day 26: July 21
We left Nova Scotia, headed through New Brunswick with a quick stop at Costco and U-Haul for propane. Yay! Hummus and cooking fuel.
The Silver Fox theme continued:
We were able to board the ferry to Grand Manan:
…enjoyed lighthouses leaving and arriving:
…and were welcomed by Dolphins (Porpoises?)
We got Site 19 ($28 E) at The Anchorage Provincial Park (where we stayed eight years ago) and set up for a good stay:
Day 27: July 22
We keep trying to remember everything about our previous stay here, including the skeleton of a whale we cannot find. Finally, the park lady said it had been taken to a maritime museum, maybe in St. John, and was just here for “flesh removal” (mystery solved)!
We took the bikes along Long Pond Road and took a trail (no birds):
…and did some beachcombing (and finally found some glass and pretty stones):
On the beach, we met a guy from Shediac who, when we discussed our mutual love for the ocean and harbours, called himslef a “Wharf Rat”, a perfect description for us, too!
After lunch, we drove south to Red Point:
…Southern Head (where we got better cell reception “at the end of the earth” than we get at home!):
…then stopped at Seal Cove where we toured around the former Herring Smoke Shacks (with resident cat which was nicer to David than Mandy is!):
…and had a Wharf Rat Chat with two lobtser fisherman and learned about the “Gray Zone”, ocean between Grand Manan and Maine which is really Canadian and where you can fish lobster, essentially all year. There were lobster boats and salmon (farmed) boats in the harbour:
…and a little beach with some glass and Aretha’s “Pink Cadillac”:
On the way back, we saw what we thought were Caribou, but discovered later were European Red Deer (farmed):
A lovely day on the island. Here’s the view from my chair. This is probably the nicest serviced site we have ever had:
Day 28: July 23
It was meant to be a stormy day, but was gorgeous. So we headed back north. We would have stopped at the Saturday Farmer’s Market, but the crowds and a motorhome don’t mix. So we headed to the Long Eddy Point Lightstation, where we remember seeing whales last time. Alas, no whales, but a Bald Eagle (juvenile):
On our way back, we stopped at the Castalia Marsh for lunch (Canada Geese!), viewed some old headstones (as early as 1830’s), quite beautifully preserved:
…and passed the Grand Manan Wildlife Association Shooting Range (strange terminology) which we think we heard later in the evening!
It was another nice evening, though we spent a while trying to remove sap that had dripped on our bug tent (ice, Dawn soap, Lysol wipes, GOOP). Fingers crossed!
Here’s the afternoon view from our whale-watching chairs:
Day 29: July 24
Off to Dark Harbour to watch the dulsing. This pond is accessible through an outlet at high tide and over the breakwater, like today, via a winch. It was fun to watch the guys come in. One said he can get six to seven bags twice a day at about $50 a bag. We got there just as the final dories were coming in (and we learned that this colour is Dory Buff):
We spoke with a gentleman who said this pond was once a real going concern filled with dulsers and camps. The red-roofed one was where he spent six summers with his family:
Next stop was Stanley Beach for some beachcombing and a ridiculous amount of beautiful glass and shards:
A woman who lives here said she and many other islanders come here often and treat glass hunting like meditation. I like the image!
We stopped at Whale Cove (no whales) and returned to Long Eddy (no whales, but two Dolphins), had an icecream, and returned to a very hot afternoon.
I cooled down with a beach walk and bird watch:
Though we don’t have a view of the beach from our chairs, it IS just a short bike ride away:
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