Monday, July 3, 2017

NL #8: Island Changes

Roadside View:

Here we are, icebergs and all:

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Day 16: June 30, 2017

Not sure where the sunshine and 70F of the last two days went, but here we are!

We headed to Tilting for our ritual of RV dumping and taking on water, essentially in the middle of the road!

We stopped at the Dwyer Premises to check out the flakes we saw the men making the last time we were here. We went into the museum (it’s a 1920’s era house, “stores” and “stage” that has been restored). Natasha, our teenage guide, was so sweet with her Newfoundland/Irish lilt!

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We hiked up the hill for a view of more icebergs (and an iceberg-inspired cabin):

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and stopped at the “oldest Irish Roman Catholic cemetery outside Ireland”:

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Next stop, Fogo and more and more icebergs:

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some Fish and Chips and a decision to stay at the Brimstone Campground we love. We got site 7A ($30 E/W) and enjoyed the view:

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We hiked a little higher and were stunned by even more beauty:

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Frankly, any locals we talk to are not as thrilled about the icebergs as we tourists are. They represent a particularly difficult winter. Also, since tomorrow marks the start of the three-day Family Fishing time for Cod, the cold seems to have kept the fish away. and there were no seals this year. And there are no whales. So, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

Day 17: July 1, 2017

Happy Canada Day!

It was a foggy start, but Elvis-berg appeared around the cliffs:

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Oh, and later, we saw Loch Ness-berg:

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We drove to the two villages we hadn’t visited before. First was Deep Cove:

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then Island Harbour:

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We headed to Seldom then Stag Harbour for a church-bell-side lunch (yes, David rang the bell):

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and were entertained by an Immature and an Adult Bald Eagle:

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We dropped into the Canada Day celebrations:

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and left with some yummy baked goods, including a Partridge Berry pie!

We took a few more iceberg shots on our way back to Joe Batt’s Arm (it’s irresistible):

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then decided to hike the trail. It was COLD (and, yes, it’s JULY FIRST) but invigorating and, good for some glass at Mickey’s beach:

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Here’s our increasingly foggy view from Joe “Cat’s” Arm! There WERE fireworks from the Fogo Island Inn. I heard them, but it was cold, late and super foggy. Too bad!

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Day 18: July 2 (Happy Birthday Mom!), 2017

Okay, just two more bergy shots (we keep trying to capture the “blue” and got a hole in one this time):

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We got space on the ferry easily since we were heading to Change Islands. But, another back off!

This is a new spot for us. It’s only 14 kilometers from tip to tip, so you can see things quickly and easily. It’s a very pretty place:

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We stopped at a trail and were joined by a “summer local” (his wife’s family is from there; his from Trinity Bay). He told us why these were called Change Islands.

English settlers chose the wooded side of the Main Tickle to build their houses. But, when it was time to fish, the shores opposite were better. So they built stages first then summer homes. Thus, they “Changed Islands” with the seasons!

We then visited the Olde Shoppe Museum we were directed to by someone on Fogo. The curator, Pete Porter, spent 30 or more minutes with us, explaining every one of the hundred, maybe thousands, of artifacts he has collected. His banter was wonderful and his knowledge was great. He finishes the tour with a song on his button accordion and one from his vintage jukebox. Do not miss this if you ever come. You will learn a lot about life in outport Newfoundland:

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We drove down every road, stopped at the Newfoundland Pony Sanctuary:

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and decided to get the 5:00 ferry (yep, backed off again!). By the time we landed, it was raining quite heavily, so we drove along the Kittiwake Coast and stopped in Carmanville at the Interpretation Centre and Wetland Nature Trailhead for the night:

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