S18: Pea Soup on Saturdays

Waterfront View

This is Lushes Bight. Love the name:

Day 16: July 2

Another sunny start to the day and the relatively short drive to Stephenville. We chose the Zensville Campground (Site #34, W/E, $32) and immediately headed out with a picnic.

Our first stop was a beach we’d never been on. A guy had just seen a whale,and “I am pretty darned sure” I saw one, too:

We went up the east side of the Port au Port peninsula to Lourdes then towards new territory. First stop was Winter Houses for a picnic and a stroll through the small community:

Then on to Long Point, a place we’d heard about but never tried to reach in a MoHo. Though this was our path:

and we rattled ours bones, we passed two big bus motorhomes coming back. And one was even TOWING a Jeep. Crazy. But this view at the end was worth it:

…as were these sights, including a flock of Pine Siskins:

We stopped at Lourdes:

then continued passed the pretty houses in Mainland:

…before arriving at Cape St. George for a look at the Kittiwakes and some alpine flowers:

Here’s the view from my chair:

Day 17: July 3

It was a sunny start to an overcast day. We drove to Stephenville Crossing looking for the Wetlands and nice birds but saw nothing. A quick drive to St. George’s had us far from the shore, and we were disappointed until David took a turn past the Stephenville Airport and we found the perfect picnic spot and the remnants of the American Air Force Base:

A quiet evening ended our stay here.

Day 18: July 4

For our American friends on July 4th, we passed this on our way out of town:

We had another short trip to Corner Brook (we are into the 200 km travelling days, which are perfect) and got an unserviced site at the Prince Edward RV Park (#78, $25). After the quiet of Stephenville, the generators, screaming kids and yappy dogs here made things a little less pleasant. But the location was great for exploring a new road.

We headed towards Cox’s Cove with a great stop in McIvers with its Gull Island, complete with some chicks. And yes, that’s snow in the background:

This is supposed to be an Arctic Tern Nesting Area, and we did see some Terns, but couldn’t tell if they were Common or Arctic.

We headed to Cox’s Cove and Lynn’s Take Out for Fish and Chips, as recommended by “Bob’s Newfoundland”. They were very good:

And the scenery was pretty. And there was Beach Glass!

It was hot and sunny when we returned, and I hiked the park’s Walking Trail, and we relaxed. Here’s the view from my chair:

Day 19: July 5

This was a second sunny and warm day. Yay. Perfect for a return to Lark Harbour.

First stop was Frenchman’s Cove for a beach walk and more glass! And a tour bus. At Lark Harbour, Marlaine’s Cafe was out of business (no sweet treats for us!) so we went to Bottle Cove (the tour bus beat us there). Once the crowds cleared, we had a picnic then took the Trail’s End hike:

Next stop was the Captain Cook’s Monument (and another tour bus):

then Walmart and back for a relatively quiet evening.

Here’s the Bag ‘O Glass from our adventures on the Humber Arm:

Day 20: July 6

It was another 200 km drive to Robert’s Arm and the Crescent RV Park (Site 29, $28.75 E/W). I knew we were going to like it here from the minute I called the owner, Doug, to book our site. He was a real Newfoundlander and so welcoming.

We got settled, had lunch and took a drive to Triton and “Freddie’s Lookout”:

…and Brighton, which had a rolling iceberg the last time we were here.

Back at the campsite, we met and had a long fun visit with Doug, a true storyteller. We all laughed a lot and heard how this place, fairly recently opened, was his dream come true! And it shows. It’s a clean and beautiful place:

Day 21: July 7

We were up early for the ferry ride to Little Bay Islands (we stayed on board, just for the ride) then jumped in the Jeep for the ride to Long Point. Doug told us to visit the Tea Room for “Pea Soup on Saturday” (apparently, every day has a special food for Newfoundlanders (Fish on Fridays, “Cooked Dinner” on Sundays). When we asked the Ferry Crewman what was cooking for today, he said, “Is it Saturday? It’s Pea Soup”).

There are two outports here, that are very picturesque. This Anglican cemetery was quite abandoned, so I placed my pebble on the grave of Susannah, a young 20-year-old girl:

And yes, we had Pea Soup and Doughboys and Partridgeberry Pudding with Sauce for lunch. Delicious.

Back “home”, we visited with Doug and his wife Rosalind who made sure we were coming to the community campfire. We did and were treated to Toutons on a Stick (with butter and cinnamon), Doug’s homemade Blueberry wine, and lots of stories and laughs with a few new friends. It was almost midnight when we made it back to the MoHo. This was a perfect newfoundland day: