Fall 2016: Assateague National Seashore Part 1

Waterfront View

I love Sanderlings and I love this beach!

September 26 to October 1

Days 1 and 2

With a bunch of medical appointments for late October, we headed out early for our Fall Trip. It was a beautiful day for an uneventful drive.We had another easy border crossing, despite the sniffer dog! We saw very few election signs (Pennsylvania may ban them on interstates) though the Ron Paul 2012 sign is still there near Kingston, Ontario. We took the Turnpike and regretted the tolls on the first, short part (never again) but stayed in the relatively quiet Hickory Travel Center (and watched the debate!).

Our trip continued through Delaware (more election signs here), and we got to Assateague State Park (Site I9, No Services, $14 weekday and $28 weekend with Maryland Golden Age Pass) and settled in for four reserved nights. I took a beach walk, toured the campground on my bike, and saw our first baby horse (Hank Jr.):

Here`s the view from my chair:

Days 3, 4 and 5

Thunderstorms were expected, but it was a pretty nice day, I took three beach walks, cruised the campground, sat on the beach for a while, then we took a 10 mile bike ride in the National Park:

We saw another horse family (a baby female this time):

…but cut the ride short with black skies and a bent tire rim (my bike, of course). Back home, we watched three sites fill with young couples and families from some religious sect (long skirts and head covering for the women; trucks and flashlights but no indoor lights). Thinking Amish.

Well, it turned out to be a crazy, mostly sleepless night as those black skies turned into thunder, lightening, strong winds and relentless rain. So we spent the day inside, reading and waiting for a break. Since we were being broadsided by the wind, we drove to the Day Use area so we could face into the worst of it. We even spent the night in the overflow area so we could avoid being buffeted by the wind for another night. Oh, and after some sneezing yesterday, I developed a full-blown head cold. What a day. Here`s our view for the whole day:

We woke to this view of our campsite and those around us:

The washrooms were surrounded by water. Campsites were flooded. And we headed into Ocean City for a break from the wet. And some BBQ, so all was not lost. I even walked the beach some; people had crawled out from a day and a half spent indoors:

Day 6

It was another rainy night, and we decided to head inland to avoid what`s been promised to be more bad weather. And we hoped to paddle at Pokomoke State Park, known for canoe and kayak trails. During a stop for bread, I saw a woman dressed like our Amish neighbours and asked her about her faith. She, like the neighbours, are Mennonites, and there`s a church in Snow Hill. So, now I know.

When we paid for our site, we learned that there would be no paddling: the river has crested the banks and sewage was dumped. With my cold, bent tire rim, terrible storms and rain and some credit card problems we resolved (not our fault!), we wondered what could happen next. But the sun did come out, and I even took a walk. Here`s the view from my chair (Site 34, E, $34 on weekend):

One Last Island, Then Home!

Waterfront View

This time, it’s a beach on the St. Lawrence River in Riviere-du-loup:

Day 30: July 25

There was a ferry and another island, so off we went to White Head. We took our bicycles and enjoyed the 30 minute free ride.

We rode almost every foot of road here, looking for real estate (nothing perfect yet), but enjoyed this pretty place complete with an interesting cemetery, beautiful, rocky beach, and busy harbour:

…and some icecream (well-deserved):

We also witnessed four more parts of the dulsing story: by crane from dories onto a truck , by ATV, by hand and by rake right in the harbour. Oh, and by mouth on the ferry (and we both spit it out after smiling our thanks!):

We enjoyed another quiet evening (and I had one last beach walk). Here’s some “beach art”:

Day 31: July 26

We were up early to fog, but needed to dump and take on water, hit the bakery, and make the 9:30 ferry. Despite the murky crossing, we did see a “Marine Mammal” (likely a seal) then six or seven whales! There were also some Common Murres and, I think, a flock of Shearwaters!

The drive north through New Brunswick was uneventful, and we decided to spend the night at the de la Republique Provincial Park ($28, E/W). Here’s the view from my chair:

Day 32: July 27

Having read that Beluga Whales have been sighted from the wharf in Riviere-du-loup, we headed there early. Thanks to another whale watcher, we DID see some: white and shiny and too quick for photos. But amazing!

We found a little beach and found the last glass of the trip. Oh, and a Santa’s Village of sorts:

 

Then we decided to head east along the river via Route 132 instead of the highway. It was lovely and interesting between the small towns and the water views. And the roadside crucifixes and shrines. And artist studios and art installations. Even our lunch spot was interesting: what we thought were swans turned out to be Snow Geese!

The rest of the Quebec drive was uneventful: no construction, no accidents and very little traffic, even below Montreal. We decided to try crossing back into Ontario via Salaberry-de-Valleyfield this time and would do it again. Our last night on the road was a noisy one at the Flying J. Here’s the view from my chair (tucked among the transports):

Day 33: July 28

It was nice to have only five hours to go. Another easy drive across this part of Ontario, just as the long weekend traffic was beginning.

This was a great trip. I think the best part was that we stayed put in places for two, three, even four and five days to enjoy the waterfront campgrounds we found and these pretty Maritime provinces. We would love to have found a summer home, but not yet. So more East Coast exploring awaits!

Another Island, Another Province

Waterfront View

A dory used for dulsing at Dark Harbour, Grand Manan, NB:

Day 26: July 21

We left Nova Scotia, headed through New Brunswick with a quick stop at Costco and U-Haul for propane. Yay! Hummus and cooking fuel.

The Silver Fox theme continued:

We were able to board the ferry to Grand Manan:

…enjoyed lighthouses leaving and arriving:

…and were welcomed by Dolphins (Porpoises?)

We got Site 19 ($28 E) at The Anchorage Provincial Park (where we stayed eight years ago) and set up for a good stay:

Day 27: July 22

We keep trying to remember everything about our previous stay here, including the skeleton of a whale we cannot find. Finally, the park lady said it had been taken to a maritime museum, maybe in St. John, and was just here for “flesh removal” (mystery solved)!

We took the bikes along Long Pond Road and took a trail (no birds):

…and did some beachcombing (and finally found some glass and pretty stones):

On the beach, we met a guy from Shediac who, when we discussed our mutual love for the ocean and harbours, called himslef a “Wharf Rat”, a perfect description for us, too!

After lunch, we drove south to Red Point:

…Southern Head (where we got better cell reception “at the end of the earth” than we get at home!):

…then stopped at Seal Cove where we toured around the former Herring Smoke Shacks (with resident cat which was nicer to David than Mandy is!):

…and had a Wharf Rat Chat with two lobtser fisherman and learned about the “Gray Zone”, ocean between Grand Manan and Maine which is really Canadian and where you can fish lobster, essentially all year. There were lobster boats and salmon (farmed) boats in the harbour:

…and a little beach with some glass and Aretha’s “Pink Cadillac”:

On the way back, we saw what we thought were Caribou, but discovered later were European Red Deer (farmed):

A lovely day on the island. Here’s the view from my chair. This is probably the nicest serviced site we have ever had:

Day 28: July 23

It was meant to be a stormy day, but was gorgeous. So we headed back north. We would have stopped at the Saturday Farmer’s Market, but the crowds and a motorhome don’t mix. So we headed to the Long Eddy Point Lightstation, where we remember seeing whales last time. Alas, no whales, but a Bald Eagle (juvenile):

On our way back, we stopped at the Castalia Marsh for lunch (Canada Geese!), viewed some old headstones (as early as 1830’s), quite beautifully preserved:

…and passed the Grand Manan Wildlife Association Shooting Range (strange terminology) which we think we heard later in the evening!

It was another nice evening, though we spent a while trying to remove sap that had dripped on our bug tent (ice, Dawn soap, Lysol wipes, GOOP). Fingers crossed!

Here’s the afternoon view from our whale-watching chairs:

Day 29: July 24

Off to Dark Harbour to watch the dulsing. This pond is accessible through an outlet at high tide and over the breakwater, like today, via a winch. It was fun to watch the guys come in. One said he can get six to seven bags twice a day at about $50 a bag. We got there just as the final dories were coming in (and we learned that this colour is Dory Buff):

We spoke with a gentleman who said this pond was once a real going concern filled with dulsers and camps. The red-roofed one was where he spent six summers with his family:

Next stop was Stanley Beach for some beachcombing and a ridiculous amount of beautiful glass and shards:

A woman who lives here said she and many other islanders come here often and treat glass hunting like meditation. I like the image!

We stopped at Whale Cove (no whales) and returned to Long Eddy (no whales, but two Dolphins), had an icecream, and returned to a very hot afternoon.

I cooled down with a beach walk and bird watch:

Though we don’t have a view of the beach from our chairs, it IS just a short bike ride away: